you can replace the blue pipe in your setup with a breather filter on the head and just block the hole on the inlet pipe, but you need the big pipe that runs from the inlet pipe to the throttle body.....

Look at the big rubber piece that you have removed.

There are three pipes:

1. The biggest pipe which goes to the main throttle body entry - you've replaced this with the metal pipe and rubber couplers.
2. The littlest pipe which goes to the rocker cover - you have replaced with the small blue one.
3. The medium pipe which goes to the fitting on the throttle body below the big - you haven't replaced this.

Disconnect this pipe from the big rubber section (including the small plastic 90 degree bend) and re-attach it to the throttle body.



Now look at my photo. The medium pipe is connected to the blue coupler that's next to the sensor box. You need to connect this pipe to your air intake somewhere after the sensor box.

Your best bet for this is probably to remove the blue pipe and attach the medium black pipe to that fitting on your induction kit. Then put a little filter on the rocker cover.

looks like i need one of these....

So as I understand some 1.5s have an Idle sensor and some dont?
And when you have them they need to be plugged into the couplers of the Intake?

Yes Cozz

That would seem to be the case.

pre ford 1.5 and 1.8 have "extra pipework" that originally plumbs into the intake pipe - and as such it must be integrated into the newpipework

the egr pipe can be removed at this point though and replaced with a filter on the block

Alright then thanks for the info, got a feeling Im gonna have this pipe.. Ive got the preford door cards so im expecting more preford things

So............errrrrrrrrrrrrr I did this back in November but just never bothered to put the pics up. I have noticed a much throatier sound to the engine. A grumble would be more precise as opposed to a rumble............you could say burble

Looks nice but I am not too happy with the Air Filter being so low down the bay so may have to do something when the weather is better to bring it up the pipework a little.

Pics as always.

The engine bay as it is (soon to be somewhat modified though)


The CDA intake can be seen from this pic sitting way down in the bay of e......ngine


Just a side on view here


I have no clue as to why the pics have come out with a hint of blueness to them, but it was just getting dark and I had the flash off so as not to reflect off the stainless steel pipework.

Oh well people, comment away!!!

looks good mase mine is in roughly the same position,

what have you gfot holding the CDA in place? did you make a bracket.

just noticed your braceket as soon as i wrote taht as well, mine comes off the bottom of the gearbox mount i think

it is believed to be better to have the bracket on the "engine (gearbox)" rather than the bodywork as the engine moves - and the bodywork doesnt

Tried and tested, yes and this statement by matt would be correct, but I have revved the engine quiet a bit and the movement is minor.

looks like Ive been forced into this modification! the mechanic that replaced my clutch removed the induction stuff to get in about the clutch and broke the rubber (must have been brittle he says) on the coupler to the throttle body, then just fidgeted the jubilee clip and bodged the whole thing on with a couple of tie-wraps!

Anyways, what Im asking the 1.8 owner's is - is it 2.5" pipe I need, and is the following 'circuit' diagram correct?
It seems too simple!!? Do i really need the resonator?



going by this my shopping list is as follows:

90 degree pipe x 1
45 degree pipe x 1
9mm breather filter
pieces of coupling x 3
stainless jubilee clips x6
Air filter with adapter & clips x1

is that correct?>

Post or pre ford?

ummmm... its a 99 1.8i exec... how do I tell? There doesnt seem to be any other sensors or EGR pipe attached to the induction unit as a whole... just the return from the rocker cover, the MAF and then down thru the filter to the resonator.

not sure which is which 1 doesn't need any other than whats in pic, other needs extra pipe/bit into pipework near filter.
i have spare bits lying round but are for 1.5 size pipes, the couplers do fit but have to stretch...

if you've got no idle air pipes (they're about 1 inch in diameter) coming off of the main pipe to the throttle body then you are good to go

i got a reducer for mine to replace the coupler on the maf to the new pipe work

yep.. looks about right.... Im pretty sure the pipes are 2.5" as well

so Im looking for:

90 degree pipe x 1
45 degree pipe x 1
9mm breather filter
pieces of coupling x 3
stainless jubilee clips x 8 (to be safe)
Air filter with adapter & clips x1

+ 76mm - 63mm reducer x 1

That sounds about right buddy. Looks similar to the shopping list that I drew up.

thanks for the help guys... Ill need to get ordering.. ive helped the bodged connection with some duck tape - remember: if you cant duck it f*ck it!

Matey, I have some spare jubilee clips left over from when I did mine. I can see how many I got left for you.

They are stainless steel ones like in the pics above of my car.

Want??

no ta mate. ive got 10 on order - ebay 5.40!! thanks tho

Thats where I got mine from, just went a bit crazy and bought a 12 pack.

lol.... I know, Ive been trying to stick to a budget of around 60 quid... Im forecasting 100 now!!
Also just had a thought: I used to work on air rifles when I was younger and one of the ways you could marginally increase power was to slightly funnel the inside of the air transfer port from the piston to the breech - this allowed a tiny increase in airflow. Im wondering if the same thing could be done here.

so the setup would go like this:

throttle body ---- 2.5" 90degree bend ---- 76mm (3") to 63mm (2.5") reducer ---- 3" 45degree bend ---- MAF ---- filter ---- CAF

depends on the size of the connection to the MAF though - Ive a funny feeling its 63mm

anyways - with a cold air feed forcing air through the system, this reduction in diameter before the throttle body might slightly increase the force of the air.
hopefully another member can shed some more light on this idea... not sure it would make much of a difference anyway!

well I ended up goin to the scrappys and getting a new piece of pipe until I can afford the good stuff. I also found out that if you try really hard, you can put the pipe from a 1.5 onto a 1.8!!
there is 2 1.5's at shewalton breakers in Irvine and another at Irvine auto spares, also one just came in at paisly auto breakers

im thinking do do this. but i have to link up the intake idle pipe to the tb pipe. and plus thinking how to mount it to the engine. anyone got any pics how they mounted it?

On Matt's original he had 2 brackets going from the bodywork to the pipework (you can just see them behind the coolant tank)


Mase and Paul have put their's in similar to this




Matt then changed it so that the bracket was attached to the engine mount ala this:


hope that helps fella

Having the BMC at the bottom of the engine like Mase has fitted to Lacey(same as Maisey), will it make much difference? Due to the BMC being so well designed by keeping the hot engine heat away from the filter...

I didn't notice much difference from it being lower in the engine bay to being higher up in the engine bay.

If you're at Japfest, you can see it for yourself.

Sweet. Check this pic Mase,


http://www.europerformance.co.uk/images ... onkits.jpg