Man, spit it out.
I've seen so many mods of susp. that i cannot say why are you doing this with certain.
Either you get the track of the front wider,make excessive camber,widening the engine bay for bigger engine and gears,put in shocks that need longer susp. swing,rasing the car for offroad... and so on...
My best gues is that you need better traction for the power that the car has.. but how will you achieve it is the question?Show more pics..

i will spit it out, but not for now,

your best guess is 100% correct !, The project is still the same, weight reduction, better weight distribution and slightly more power.. i need to weld two more brackets and then i will show you what it is.

So i have posted a few teasers, not sure if i would show you the whole project...
But i do it anyway, only here, not on facebook, twittah or istahgram just here, to keep it a bit exclusive.

In the past i have had some stupid idea's, young and wild as i was, started a big amount of projects but never finished them, Widebody BG, Suicidedoors BG, Twinturbo, supercharger etc, i also started the AWD project based on GTX/GTR bits for the suspention. This was a project which didn't come cheap, messed up the complete Black BG, gained allot of spare parts but never made it to a succesfull end. This was because of the transmission, V6 AWD. Stories let me believe that there was a V6 AWD manual gearbox, but in reality it was only a automatic gearbox. That wasn't an option for me, But as wild as i were, i already cut the chassis open to make room for this giant gearbox, propshaft and other bits... f8ck f8ck f8ck.. End of body, real shame, It was one stunning body...

Years went by, projects come and go, did some swaps in the meantime, made some turbo's working, made them break aswel , lets say i had my fair bit of experiences. Time is come to make one final project. Relying on my years of experiences, a big time research & development and friends and family.

This one will finish, that i promise.
Let me take you down the rabbit hole..



The project name : Hades
The object : Mazda 323F BG 1994, 2.5ltr V6 (currently) KLDE
Goal : Lightweight, optimal weigth distribution.
Aimed road ready weight : 1000kg or less
Aimed Power output : 250bhp - 270bhp N/A

Lightweight, means that the vehicle will be under 1000KG, absolute priority. The second bit will be the hardest point. For a optimal weight distribution i needed to transfer mass weight more to the back, but also to the middle and lower. Easy way of thinking would be mid engine AWD, but that will be to heavy. Looking in the complete Mazda Fleet, we see that the Miata and RX7 are really up to spec if we look at weight an weight distribution. Than you would say that it is easier to buy a RX7 or a miata... well i'am not a hair dresser or richman to buy a RX7. (which is also to heavy)

WELLLLL what does that mean.. build your own Big ass engine, rearwheeldriven The V6 BG weights trackready 990kg. Pretty stock with a massive engine but without the lightweight bits.
So as i started my research, i had to choose the engine setup, types of gearboxes and diff's. With al sorts of calculators i made up my decision to go for a Mazda KLZE engine, RX7 TII gearbox and Miata diff. (with 323GTR LSD) This in combination with idiotic amount of power and 17" wheels should boost this thing to a w0pping 300kph.

Time to collect more info, parts was easily fixed. How to make the Gearbox fit the engine, luckily many Miata hairdressers when for a same swap, so allot of info was easy to get.
Next step, make an adapter plate. Most of the hairdressers use their own Miata gearbox, but that need cutting in the bellhousing for the starter. NO go, that's also why i choose for the RX7 gearbox, the starter is casted in the bellhouse. I made my own adapter plate out of 15mm aluminum. And a spacer is made to pickup the necessary room between the flywheel. After allot of cutting, drilling etc i had my own adapter plate. made without a computer or CNC mill

The next bit was quite hard, i had to figure out the position of the engine. with my AWD project i already noticed the lack of room near the steeringcollum. But also the sub frame (for the wishbones) is not good for use in this project.. I bought front and rear sub frame of a miata, to measure and see how that is build. No good for usage within the BG body. I was supplied with a complete 323fBG by a good friend of mine. So I grabed the original front sub frame and made a jig around it to, eventually, make a new sub frame myself. After 20hours of welding measuring etc i made a complete new sub frame , finished this yesterday.

Next step is the rear suspension, make it fit, see if it is necessary to make a custom frame or go with a Miata or RX7 one. When that one is figured out i will be able to fit the engine and modify the chassis for the propshaft tunnel..

As you can see, lots of work, but i will get there #V6Donutmachine

Love it!!!!
Awesome work! can't wait to see you drifting a F!

Nice work indeed.Still waiting more pics of the progress.
I digest the info better on pics where i can see what's happening and how.

Awesome work so far Adri! Can't wait to see what this beast turns out like!

Glad you're sticking with the KL too

yes i will stick with the KL

swapping the KLDE for a KLZE

Nice! I better come and check it out soon!

RWD v6 ze in an F! thats just all kinds of awesome. I'm sure I've had a wet dream like that

Am i seeing something wrong, or am i wrong?
The steering rack at the front of the carriers?

No that is correct, the carriers will be swapped from left to right.

This is billet p0rn

special adapter for the crank, i needed this one to fill up the room between the flywheel and crank to fit in a bellhouse adapter.

and some matching bolt,
bloody hard to find !

M10x40x1.00 10.9 bolts

You've probably already got a good supplier, but anyway...

I've used (even from Australia) a supplier in the UK called Westfield Fasteners. They're good at making particular fasteners for you at a reasonable price out of the material you want if they don't ahve them 'off-the-shelf', just contact them. Often the fastener part price is more than reasonable but the postage price for heavier items (e.g. M10 bolts) may not be!

For example, I've ordered M2 and M2.5 socket-head cap screws and grub screws in packets of 10 and 100 from them.

Patrick

The main problem was that i only needed 8 bolts instead of 200... so a good friend of my arranged 40 instead off 200.
so that problem is solved. I'm now working on the engine mounts made out of Teflon sort of material and then the rear sub-fame will be taken care of

This is not going fast but i will get there eventually

Here you can see the differences between the GTR Diff and miata diff.
The miata diff. is easier to mount in the chassis. although the GTR diff contains a LSD diff. need to figure out if they are compatible.

also work in progress are the engine mounts and the intake. normally the trottle body is on the flywheel side of the engine but there is no room for if the engine is in place. So need to make my own intake. So yesterday i had some time to see if i could modify my welding machine into a aluminum welding machine... and some how it worked. Although it need some tweak i managed to weld some aluminum. Now i need to learn how to weld good an clean.

That is some thing for next 2weeks or so. Project comes to a halt because of a MX3 turbo swap.

After the MX3 turbo swap i will start with the rear subframe to figure out how to fit that one.

now that's something new. Great stuff are happening in here, can't wait to see it sideways

That is allready done

Adri, mate, huge respect chap, as always totally cool, I NEED to see this at JAE

Well it will be some day at JAE, not sure if it is this year but we will see.

The Mazda MX-3 Turbo is nearly done so i can work on my own next week.
First get it on stands and pull the engine out (Again.. :P) and dismantel the rear subframe,
Then try to see if the front subframe fit and make some engine brackets and the oilpan.




Edit1:) Just orderd a coilpack 6cil. and a new radiator from a S2000! VTEC jow

So, small update,
Turbo MX3 is gone, working fine !

So the 323 is on jackstands, waiting for new parts and work to be done.
i'm still not sure whether i get it to MOT first and than RWD ór RWD and than MOT.

Got a MOT list figured out, also got a list for the RWD project... that is slightly bigger.. :P I already have a new radiator in and the coilpack which is needed for replacement of the stock ignition. There is no room for the original ignition due to the bulkhead
engine needs to be as far into the car as we can..

Barreljan has already prepared the stratified ECU, so in the meantime i'm working on a solid planning

Picture :

Coilpack, actually the lead caps for the plugs are a bit to short, not sure if i can swap those with the originals.

as i'm working slowly on my project i finished just another step.

Rust was not a big issue i thought, but then, after removing the side skirt there was a massif hole in the doorsill.
luckily i am able to fix this myself so within 4hours the sill was done and ready for paint. Added just a primer to prevent it for rusting again.

next: engine an MOT.

The plan is defined, the car gets MOT first and then the RWD swap. I need some extra parts which i need to get first before starting the RWDproject.

Update 26-04 :

I made up my mind, i have pulled the engine yesterday because i had the feeling that i was going backwards instead of making any progress.
So that was pretty much the 10th time i pulled an engine out of this chassis.

The cable-loom is removed,
The Exhaust is removed,
The engine mounts and supports removed,
The original front subframe and steeringrack removed,
The new tubular sub-frame is test fitted to the chassis, sadly not a direct fit. So sad but true i have to modify it, luckily not much though.

If that is done, the hub knuckles will be modified and mounted, than the car can stand back on his feet. I also have a second mockup engine to use for making the engine mounts.


no pictures yet .

Nice work Adri, sounds like you're making good progress mate! Be good to see this when it's all finished!

Well thank you, i'm not making that much progress, my family needs attention to, so i'm quite limited in time. Saturday i will finish this front subframe.


To do list for next Saturday:
Finish subframe,
Prepare test-engine2, (taking intake, clutch, headers and oilpan off an mounting a lifting hook to it)
Make a jigg for test-engine2, and lower it in/on to the subframe.
Make engine brackets/mounts, (based on MX5 mounts)

much to do in a few hours

Nice work!
Wish I can do AWD. But don't have "backup" with money and my parents didn't support that decision.
Ofc they don't like my Mazda at all because is "OLD" and parts are too expensive. But I will stick with my car how much I can. If will be necessary I'll study and find some job just to have for parts. Luckily that Mazda is thankful car. Just must do one good service and she will be on the road for at least a decade or two.

Thank you, i'm not working on AWD but 'only' RWD ( rearwheeldrive ). I'm lucky to have a workshop, something i worked on for many years with many people.
Now i'm doing the last project and that is this one. Doing my best en giving my best effort to finish it.

Things i have done, not Saturday but last night :P,

Finish subframe,
Prepare test-engine2, (taking intake, clutch, headers and oil pan off an mounting a lifting hook to it)
Remove brake booster
Test fit test-engine2
Make the steering rack joint for the steering column.

and as we all can see the test-engine2 is in position (sort of) an looks quit nice, but im not there yet. It gives me a good idea how it fits an where room is to make exhausts steering joints, pedalbox etc etc etc. This car is not made for rearwheeldrive, and that is some thing you can see :P

work inprogres, the car can steer now, that one is working... not much room for a 3-1 collector

Another bonus of turning the engine round for RWD - you can change the cambelt without taking the engine out of the car top work as always buddy!