Look forward to seeing them fitted, more amazing work

@Lerch - yeah they should fit but I think it will be tight!

Cheers Howie should be on by 5pm tonight!

Just heard from my machine shop ( www.matcoeng.com ) that the new spigots are ready for collection too
I love it when a plan comes together!

nice wheels. tyre size is a bit big for a F tho. same size mazz has on her vr4

Couple of pics of the spigot rings:



Audi?!?!


Right well the wheels were fitted but then removed again as the rears rub the arches sooo very slightly
Pics of them fitted though:










Only real option is to have the rear arches rolled
What are peoples view on wheel arch rolling and does anybody have any recommendations for it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheel-Arch-Ro ... 58988e6b8c

Bit pricey for the tool, but well worth it in my opinion

http://www.driftworks.com/arch-roller.html
I was looking at that one as well

But I have no experience in rolling arches
it'll cost about £90 to have a professional do it --> http://www.archenemy.co.uk/

Decisions, decisions

Very nice

why not buy the tool and then if anybody in the club wants their arches rolling you could rent the tool out to them or do it for them at a cost? Make your money back on the tool in no time?

I think Marc S has an arch roller? As he used one to roll the arches on his RX7, I'm sure he could explain to you how to use it and how he did his.

http://www.club323f.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=38241&start=240#p688837

Nice wheels Lee & Nathan. I like white on red

Dont you open up the possibility of rust developing if you roll arches?

lovely! yep, red and white is a nice combination

The mazdaspeed spoiler would fit as a glove to your F...

I like the new wheels.

Rolling arches is super easy. All you need is a hair dryer, piece of wood and my favourite tool a hammer. I have rolled all my old escorts myself and I did Rascos BJ a few years back when I was helping him and marc change suspension on it. And now you are going to say you wouldnt know how well my dad just handed me the wood and the hammer when I was younger and said "you see that lip. well make it flush with the body work where the wheel will move up." that is all you need to know. If you are worried about paint flaking off and rust then just have a tine of clear ready to spray on after as it will be on the inside where you wont see.

My mate has just rolled the arches on his arosa all he used was a rubber mallet and brute strength.

Well we'll definitely be using a proper tool! just not ghetto enough for wood and hammers




The potential rust issue is what we feared Daz but going on-line loads of people have done it and don't appear to have any long term issues.




Unfortunately Marc's a bit far away from us to go to but I may well drop him a PM




Because we don't have any experience and we'd rather pay the money and have a proper job done as we'll only need it doing once.









Thanks guys!
I'm sure a type R spoiler would look nice, but no one else in the (UK) club has this spoiler and we like to stand out and be a bit different
Pretty sure Dad (lee) decided on white after seeing my Mazda 2 with white wheels!

After having them rolled by whoever....can you coat the whole inside of the arch with an under-seal type substance to protect against corrosion?

Wheel arch rolling booked in for 29th June

WARNING lots of reading below you could always just look at the pictures haha

Brake modifications have started this weekend
The modifications:
New proportional valve from a 323F V6 no ABS
A Subaru Legacy Master cylinder with diameter 1 1/16" (This should also future proof us if we ever decide to fit larger calipers )
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
A standalone clutch reservoir as the Subaru legacy reservoir doesn't have a take off port. (won't be here till monday so no test drives this weekend)

Yesterday we started stripping the old master cylinder and proportional valve,
first we emptied the reservoir with a syringe (thanks Stu ) then we moved on to the proportional valve. This block of metal takes the full pressure from the master cylinder and delivers a lower pressure to the rear brakes but full pressure to the front.

The old one:

This valve has 5 ports: 2 from the master cylinder front chamber and rear chamber, the bottom goes straight to the front passenger brake and the 2 on the right go to the rear brakes

The new one :

This valve has 6 ports: 2 from the master cylinder front chamber and rear chamber, the bottom goes straight to the front passenger brake, the 2 on the right go to the rear brakes and the top one that goes straight to the drivers side front brake.

The old master cylinder had 3 ports on, 2 of which went to the proportional valve and one went straight to the drivers side front brake.
The new master cylinder has only 2 ports which is perfect as the proportional valve we are using now has 2 inputs and 4 outputs.

Only down side is the ports are in a slightly different place and the pipe that went directly to the front drivers side brake before will now need to be extended to connect to the new proportional valve the copper pipe in the pictue below (and above) is the new extension pipe.


Then it started raining
so we went inside to start re-building the new master cylinder on the kitchen floor... as you do!
We had bought 2 so we could use the best parts from each of them along with a rebuild kit to make one good master cylinder couple of pics below:




eventually the rain stopped so we went back outside and removed the old master cylinder:

this is where i had a bit of a shock, all of the research I had done up until now was spot on the only bit I couldn't research without taking one apart was the standard interface between the brake servo and master cylinder after a while of measuring I had concluded the the push rod inside the servo needed to be 20mm longer.


to make this easier and to freshen up the brake servo we decided to remove it from the car so i could remove the pin inside,

There is some adjustment on the internal pin... however when i unscrewed the pin 10mm it ran out of thread so we knew a new one is required with the machine shop only working monday to saturday lunch time it would have to wait until next weekend... or will it, i looked closer at it and measured the thread etc, first concept idea was some m6 all thread with a dome nut on top, tried that but the dome nut was far too large in comparison. so i got out all my odds and ends of nuts and bolts too look for a suitable replacement and came up with this:


I shaped the end too so it was the same... not using a lathe.... using a cordless drill a file and a couple of grades of wet and dry really impressed with the results


This is where we stopped yesteday:

all rust sanded off and treated then a lick of black hammerite to restore the servo to its former glory

To be continued!

Blimey guys, much work has been done

Looking very good, love the new wheels, did Matt fit the tyres himself?

Question though, you have rims the same size as mine now, albeit your offset is 36 to my 38, why not go for the 215/40 17s ? Whats the rational behind the larger size?

How much was that engine mount and where can I get one

Cheers


Would be rather cool if he did haha


At the time the tyres we wanted weren't made in that size although I bet they are now scared to look!


We got ours 2nd hand from Cyntax
to buy new they are $119.99 plus postage from the US
EDIT: from here: http://www.streetunit.com/SU_MAZDASPEED ... upafmm.htm

Right, during the odd dry spells we managed to:
fit the servo
fit the new plunger to the servo and set the distance to protrude from the face by 10mm
made up a new brake line from the front port of the master cylinder to the proportional valve as the old line couldn't be modified to fit!
bench bled the master cylinder
Then once it was all plumbed in we bled the brakes

Bits that are left to do are:
fit a new remote clutch reservoir and bleed the clutch
Then a test drive!

.........!

Gents, your research, engineering and enthusiasm makes me glad I don't live closer we'd never be out of each others garage

Cheers Stu

Right pictures from yesterday because I couldn't be bothered to turn the computer on last night!

Brake servo fitted with my new longer plunger


New brake line from the master cylinder to the proportional valve:


It fits!




The other bit of work I had to do was check the fluid level sensors operated in the same way so I checked the plug on the car for continuity and there was so that would mean the sensor was either open when the fluid was low or closed when the fluid was low, I check the old sensor out of the reservoir and it was an open circuit I checked the new Subaru one and it was also an open circuit! happy days, nothing more complicated than cutting off a plug and soldering on the Mazda plug

When bleeding the brakes the pedal was rock hard! Can't wait to test them on the road!

Clutch reservoir should make an appearance today so should get that fitted in the week


EDIT: better picture of the brake pipe work we did:

Nice work, what's the advantage of a separate clutch reservoir? All looks nice and neat in there, and I especially like your work with the new pushrod .

I'd also like to ask a question about the master cylinder please Where the reservoir feeds the master cylinder, how many holes are there!? This is kindof in reference to my thread here: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=55606 but as you've just taken a master cylinder apart, you should know .
Thankyou very much.

Thank you for you comments As far as I'm aware there are none at all.... The only reason we are going to a separate reservoir is because the new reservoir didn't have a take off port (and we didn't want to make one for leakage reasons!).


Cheers mate I was quite chuffed myself

Answered on your thread

Ah yes, no leaks seems like a good avantage



Thanks very much, appreciated

Wow have not had chance to read all 13 pages yet, but had to say that wow lady in red is one awesome ride mate lovin what you have done cant wait to read all the thread i love the BA an you have made a truly amazing ride again awesome

Thank you for your kind words
Comments like these make the SAD (Sh*t And Disaster) moments bearable!
The project started in 2004... and never stops!

the weekends work:
during the week I had a bracket made to hold the new clutch reservoir utilising the existing M6 stud and hole next to it.





to pick up the hole I used a 3mm rivet to stop the bracket from spinning on the 1 M6 stud






Cut a new reservoir hose as the original one was a bit tatty!



Then we had one of those SAD moments I was talking about,
After we had bled the clutch we went for a quick spin to check the brakes.... the pedal was rock hard!
but the brakes didn't really pull up as we were expecting after a quick look round and from Dad's (Lee's) experience of older cars... we diagnosed it as the brake servo was not assisting us as it should.
back to the drawing board, the original master cylinder had an o ring, which we initially thought to be just to keep dirt out however this seals the brake servo and assists in braking power. so as a quick fix we cut a flat rubber gasket to seal against the servo body.
This works but doesn't hold a vacuum for very long after the engine is turned off, but the car is drivable

After that we thought we would try a mod from Stuartspel where he replaced the old rubber hose with a silicone one for the vacuum line between the manifold and brake servo, however the silicone pipe although advertised as vacuum hose, collapsed under vacuum


Quick trip to the scrap yard to find a suitable replacement and she's sorted again

We also got our wheel arches rolled so we were able to fit our new track day wheels:







Cheers guys

Neat that bracket, I like it. If you added some more holes though, it'd make it lighter weight

Very nice work mate!!!