I did a search for 'crank case breather filter' and came up with one page of results, none the same but here you go all the same

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... her+filter

bumping an old one, but can someone give me the part number or size for the o ring for a 1998 1.8 BA pleaseeeeeeee. i have phoned several dealers who all said that the ring isnt for sale seperately and if i wanted it i need to buyy a new dizzy

I should have one in my kit, same as for the MX5s...which are available

bit of a revival, but may help others. according to the EPC, the dizzy o ring is under ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM titled 'O' RING, with no actual reference to distributor. Details below.

1.5 - D-Code: 11-373J - Part No: 99541-03801
1.8 - D-Code: 11-373J - Part No: 99541-03801
2.0 V6 - D-Code: 18-201 - Part No: F201-18-201

Would be helpful if anyone has details on ID and cord dimensions...

I've sold these for about 7 years

...and I shall be buying shortly! We have a tonne of different o rings at work and I thought I might save myself tens of pence. Not worth the effort

Well well ... checked mine earlier and it looks like mine has failed . Its a right oily black mess around that area . Not a happy bunny

Hello all.

A few years ago I found this topic and replaced my distributor O-ring, but the oil leak didn't stop 100%. A few days ago I managed to stop 100% the oil leak from near the upper cilinder cap of the engine.

I dismounted the camshafts' holder/bearing that is in the same time the simering housing (sorry for my english, in the engine workshop manual it is called camshaft cap) from the belts side and remade the sealing with heat resistant silicon like in the bellow picture. I made the same thing with the camshaft cap from the distributor side.

After this the oil leak from the belts side stoped but not from the distributor side so I had to seal the cilinder head cover (engine top cap) from exterior in the semicircle zone of the distributor.After that the oil leakage stoped 100% (after 7 years I finally did it)

Hello,
For cord dimensions you must measure the distributor (the metal housing inner diameter not the rubber) and the old o-ring's medium diameter because it will have oval section now. And you will then have the code for the o-ring( Inner diameter and section). Regarding the material you can use Viton or FKM. I used viton(FKM) for replacing 2 distributor o-rings in 2 Mitsubishi 4G13 engines and there were no problems ( after I bought an original o-ring from Mitsubishi with 10 euros!!! and the FKM ones were ~ 1 euro/piece 44x3.5 mm).

Unfortunately I didn't kept the measures from the mazda Z5 o-ring....

Hi. Like I explained in the upper quote, you can measure the metal distributor housing inner diameter and the medium section of the old o-ring . Then go to an industrial seals distributor and buy FKM o-ring "inner diameter " x "medium section".

http://de.dichtomatik.com/en/produktkat ... km_80.html you can find here in the second picture what I'm talking about.

Hello. That is a second air filter for ventilating the cilinder cap space or the space in which the oil circulate in the engine, useful for prolonging the oil life because it puts back into the admission the gases that escapes the piston seals after the detonation. The gases from inside the engine(" oil space") are sucked into the admission through the valve shown in the bellow picture. That is what I've read about these 2 hoses that are onto the engine cap.

But the fact that in your picture, the air that enters eventually into the admission is not "measured" by the air sensor, makes me wonder about the efficiency of this method.