First of all this is not my idea. It’s been common knowledge for many years on the internet in various vehicles not just Mazda’s. So first of all here are some links of the mod covered in various forms.
http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/hei/index.htm
viewtopic.php?t=19666
http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-faq-perfor ... stall.html
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701081990
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701217992

The How To Video


So what is this mod?
You are replacing the internal coil in the distributor with an external coil. We also replace the internal ignitor with an external ignitor.

Why do it?
The coil inside the distributor is tiny, like the size of a can of tuna! The external coil, is kept cool and away from the engine heat. As too is the ignitor. I did this to a perfectly working car. If you suffer misfires or juddering this will solve it. Mine suffered at normal running temperatures a lack of 'top end' power. Spark weakens with RPM on the standard coil. Weak spark = weak burn which is just bad for performance!

What do I need?
First you need a HEI Module (available at Ford Probe Store £28), and any external coil (MSD Blaster 2 available £48 delivered). You also need some thick aluminium hex tube to act as a heat sink for the HEI module ignitor. If you can’t find any hex tube, just go for a thick lump of alloy to act as a heat sink. You also need terminal connectors (crimp type), heat shrink and self tapping screws. You also need to find a spare HT lead, just a short length 30-50cm to go between the distributor and the coil. This is an ideal time to buy a set of HT leads and use the old ones.

How to modify the distributor
You need to cut a section of the internal coil away, the part with an arm which slots into the distributor cap. The video shows how much to remove. You do need to take the distributor apart. Please mark the orientation of the rotor arm. Remove the large circular back plate on the distributor and cut away the arm section. Enough must be removed in order to fit a HT lead through the hole in the backing plate.

Modify the HT lead to fit the distributor
You need a standard HT lead to modify. Smash the plug cap off (the black piece that attaches to the spark plug). To leave the bare cable and metal connector. Slide this through the hole the coil arm used to pass through on the black backing plate on the distributor. Use a small C clip or E clip to secure the base of this metal HT leads clip to the backing plate (so it rests against it). Then cut a M6 bolt down to screw into the end of the metal clasp of the HT lead. There should be about 5-6mm protruding. Enough so that it contacts the spring in the distributor cap. When you refit the distributor cap, make sure the HT lead does not get stuck

The wiring diagram
Haven’t got one. There is a few on the links above. There are only 3 wires to worry about. On the distributor there are two connectors, a 6 pin and a 2 pin. The 2 pin has black and red. The black is positive coil, the red is neutral coil. The 6 pin, has a yellow at the rear of the connector. This is the ignition wire.

The HEI module
Ground the W connector. Ignitor wire goes to G. Coil positive goes to B, and Coil neutral goes to C.

The results
It has more power across the rev range. My car has the Xedos V6 which is less powerful than the 323F engine in. After this mod it pulls so much stronger.

I have to say i am quite shocked at how your car accelerates. a lot quicker than i though the standard british BAv6 would be. I am definitely going to be doing this since you think it provides such a gain through out the rpm range and would be a waste of my new leads and iridium plugs if i dont lol

Great mod that makes perfect sense, will be done on mine as well, defo

It ain't even the full banana 323f engine either its from a 95 Xedos which are 140bhp I think. How far off is it compared to yours?

Firstly british ones are only like 145hp so you arent far off them and I would say that you are not too far off mine and seeing mine has been dyno's at 184hp before i got it you can understand why i am a bit shocked lol.
Now serious note please tell me the difference between the following
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorspor ... 9/0/100062
and the one that you have used? Also, basically looking for the best coil i can get if you know of any better or will i be wasting my time.

Brilliant mod mate . I'll be looking into parts for this .

Im chuffed if it ain't far off yours Its still standard other than the coil too.

That coil should work just as well. Its just more compact. The Blaster 2 has oil inside to keep it cool, and is one of the higher priced coils on the market.

Could add something like this:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorspor ... 1/0/109563
Which boosts the measly 12v you get from the ignition key to over 400v and you put that into the coil. You will be able to do without the HEI module then. The HEI module is a charging and discharging capacitor, which boosts the coil voltage for more output. But it will never boost it to 400v.

Depends how much you wanna spend really. Your iridium spark plugs will definitely help the cause too.

Jamie, it should work exactly the same only difference being the wiring will be different on the 1.8.

love it! sounds like a perfect mod..

really want to try this on a 1.8, wiring diagram is the only problem

Well it has been a week now and everything's still working. I feel this mod can be improved further though. First by using better spark plugs like NGK Iridium BKR6EIX-11 perhaps. Also my HT leads are probably wearing thin too so I'm deciding whether to buy a ready made set of Magnecor Electrosports 80 HT leads or make my own. Trouble is deciding whether to use copper or graphite silicon core.

Anyway I've mounted the coil now.





Basically there is a L bracket bolted to the airbox lid and the coil is zip tied to the bracket. I did check that the coil cap doesn't touch the bonnet too.

if you happen to find the wiring diagras to do this mod on a 1.8, you would make me very happy

its looking good and i will definitely be using this mod but with the blaster ignition 6al like i spoke to you about. will be recieving it later this month and I might need some help wiring in the 6al when i do get it

Sounds good pal. The MSD products usually have good documentation so we should be able to wire it up easily. How is your engine coming along?

The 1.8 should be just as simple, we just need to know what wires in the distributor plug do what so they can be bypassed.

well i just got my heads back and they look amazing. There are loads of pics in my car thread. Otherwise i need the engine out this weekend so i can take it to the engineering place next week then it is just a matter of waiting to get it back and start refitting everything

do you need the wiring colours or the actual description of every wire what it's for?

Just need the +ve and -ve coil and ignition trigger from the harness. You might need a resistor on the -ve coil line too.

let me see if i can dig something up.

Some research for you guys to digest. Standard HT leads burn up/wear out quicker when high performance coils are fitted, so invest in some good HT leads. Mine are still holding on but its been driving much slower than when I first did it. So I'm gonna upgrade to 8mm leads, including the coil to cap lead. Might also swap the M6 bolt for some brass or copper rod.
The beauty of doing this mod the way I have here is the dist. cap can be replaced if need be.

Made up some 8mm HT Leads today, all the parts come to about £25 so a good saving on ready made ones.



Also made a short HT lead for the coil to cap, and this time used this



and these



MIG welding tips as the conductor for inside the cap, still needs reducing so it 'just' compresses the spring.



By the way the car now does over 35MPG vs 29MPG before, so there is some benefits

dont know why but the images have not loaded or at least i cant see them

Wow Mike I have to admit a lot of this guide has gone over my head and I may PM you for more details but I have to say a clever bit of grassroot modifying, it's my favourite kind! I applaud you sir

Just one quick question to clarify it for stupid old me, the ignition coil within the dizzy that you used to have was small and a bit crappy but now you've basically made an external bigger coil which creates a bigger spark? Yes?

You wouldnt happend to be making 2 would you as I would like one as well if you wouldnt mind and i'll pay you for it.


Spot on mate

In a nut shell yes!




Which bit do you mean? The conductor that fits in the distributer or the whole lot?

just the conductor mate as you have seen the kit i am planning on getting it should have everything including and HT lead and all i will need is wires from the distributor to the Ignition blaster.. (unfortunately money has dictated cant buy that kit till next month but it will be bought)

Ah right, well they are mig welding tips so you can pick them up for a few quid. Also depends what sort of HT lead you get in that kit and what terminal it has on the end. I have a few of the screw in ends going spare if needed.

cool well then i will wait till i get the kit and will send you a pm if i need any help

No problem pal

Just a quick point Re: mounting the module. I went to the local breakers today and although I did not find the one I wanted, I found an old Bosch one. It was mounted on an Alloy Mount so I took off the module and kept just the 2 screws holding the module, the bracket and the 2 self tapping screws that held the bracket to the body. My new module fitted perfectly as the screw holes lined up exactly. An extra point. W"hen I removed the old module I noticed it had some old thermal paste on it. So I've gone on e bay and spent .99p on a tube of cpu thermal paste. Should help disperse the heat better.

Well thanks to your video, I did this conversion today. Cured all my problems and now it goes so much better than it ever did. Thanks again

Top man, you're the first to do it as well.

I did it 'cos I had to, but seeing the extra performance it gives, I'd recommend everyone do it.