I've searched for almost an hour now, read every topic I could find from top to bottom but the actuall guide seems to have disappeared...

Basically as I have gathered from other threads are you meant to get the engine warm then use a piece of wire to join the TEN and GND pins in the diagnostics port, then adjust the idle screw so it idles around 850....and when removing the wire they should drop to 750?

Also I only have a Sealey tools multimeter which I don't think has an option for RPM, is there a way to do it on a voltage setting or something or can you just adjust the screw then run around and check on the dials in the car?

Cheers

Just use the dials

Bridge the pins in the port, adjust the screw, look at dials, adjust screw some more, look at dials, repeat until desired RPM, remove bridge. Takes maybe 3 minutes if you're slow

oh lol sounds easy, i thought you had to use a multimeter, and mine doesnt seem to have an rpm function, is the right rpm 750? Cos some threads said 750 others said 850 but when you remove the wires it will reset to 750?

Nope just a bit of wire between ten and gnd will do the trick, then use the dials in the car to check the revs. I do about 850rpm, it drops when you disconnect the wire

ah brill mate, cheers

Had a go today, seems to be better now, although even when I turned the screw all the way so it wouldn't go any further...the idle still sits a little above the 750 mark...how come?

It is better than it was yesterday after fitting my ported and polished TB.

You might have ported too far into the throttle body...if you've gotten too close to the butterfly, it will allow too much air in at idle, and do exactly what you're saying

Oh no mate I didn't go anywhere near that bit as I read RY4N's guide, i only cleaned the old gunk form around the butterfly and further in from it, and then just polished around the butterfly....the bits at the entrance to the TB way before the butterfly were the bits i grinded down till smooth then sanded and polished....although it does seem to be about perfect now, the needle just rests on the top of the 750 mark which I read is good to be slightly over rather than under....yet the screw is still fully closed? Its like you turn it a little bit and it goes from 1.1k to 1k....and the same for 1k to 900, then you have to turn it for ages until the end before it touches 750......weird

hmmm ive never reached either end of the scale but as long as it idles ok, and when you're pulling up it doesnt drop down to 400 or scream up to 1200 it will be fine when braking, mine stays at about 850 till i stop, then it drops to 750 which is fine for me

mine sometimes drops to about 400.... do i need 2 re-set it by doing the above? or could i make it worse?

Yeah I would adjust it Open the diagnostic port, bridge pins TEN and GND while the engine is running at normal temperature. The revs should drop - turn the screw on the throttle body until the revs are back up at about 800-850rpm, remove the wire from the port, job done takes literally seconds. I might make a video guide at some point

ok might give it a go - are the pins marked? Cheers bud

Thats what I find really weird, makes me wonder if I have cocked something up somewhere? Can't imagine perfect idle being right at the end or there would surely be no adjustment
Ah yeah mine stays just under 1k when braking if you put the clutch in but when you stop it drops down, weird

You might have a diagram on the inside of the lid - neither of my BAs did, but every other one I've ever seen has

In case you don't, you can't go wrong with these:



EDIT: Mine is near the fully open mark alex, I did hit it while turning, then turned it back a bit - didn't give it a chance to look at the revs and yeah thats down the vacuum in the brake lines When you stop, I believe the ABS pump kicks in to relieve brake pressure (could well be wrong here) which reduces the vacuum and lets the revs settle.

haha cheers 4 that!

Ignore the comment on the fuse it will be fine. I have a paperclip stored in my enginebay for fine adjustments

Ah so yours is near fully open and I prosume mine is near fully closed...It is fully turned to the right? Very strange but if it works it works, might try the lambda sensor refurbing guide if I can work out how to loosen the lambda sensor

Oh and tomorrows job is trying to fix my ignition barrel This car used to never seem to develop any faults, now they appear to be starting constantly...I did tell it I was gonna sell or break it for parts though earlier so lets hope it listened and starts to behave

Think I might give this a go too, mine drops down to 400 quite a lot when braking/putting the clutch in as well.

Good luck on the lambda sensor Alex. Mine was an absolute bugger to get out. In the end I had the front end jacked up, a blowtorch to heat up the downpipe, then a big stilson pipe wrench from underneath with my foot on it pushing for all I was worth!
Once I got it out, the trick of heating the element with a blowtorch worked a treat, sorted out my erratic idel perfectly.

Rob

Cheers Rob, need to think of something to get it shifted....may sound silly but whats a stilson pipe wrench?

I don't seem to have any idle problems but I read that guide and at the moment I'm just trying to give as much of the engine as possible a quick bit of maintenence to try and release any lost power and economy, not sure if it will work but the porting and polishing of the TB has deffo made the rev range smoother and seems to have improved throttle response.

sma with my lambda - downpipe heated to get it out

Mine came straight out with an 18" wrench

Just done this guys, 1st time i bridged them the engine cut out, so i turned the screw anti-clockwise a few turns then tried again & it worked... dropped it back down to around 800 then took the pin out & it seems fine so far...

Question is, is this a perminant fix or will it start to drop again? If so how long does it seem to last?

(P.s this is dead easy to do & its worth a try doesnt even take 5 mins!)

Yep that's exactly how I'd do it

Should be permanent, but if it happens again, just adjust again

I've tried this after my engine was idleing @ 900 rpm.

i bridged the ten and gnd revs dropped to abot 5-600 revs adjusted them, un-did the ten/gnd bridge it's back ideling at about 900 revs.
came to work this morning and noticed a burning smell when the engines warmed up and the heater is on..

What have i done wrong ?
Please HELLLLLLLLP meeeeeeeee.

What sort of burning smell? Burning oil? Burning coolant? Burning plastic? Burning flesh? Burning toast?

How's your coolant level? Hows the temperature gauge? Does everything appear normal? Does the car drive as it should?

Hughi,e Not sure mate, its a bit like leccky wire/heater burning.


Before i did the rev set, I swapped the o2 sensor and reset the ecu by disconecting the battey for 5mins and put my foot on the brake for a couple omins before reconecting the battery again
Was that the right procedure ?

Has your heater only just been switched on for the first time in a few weeks? Most cars I've owned have smelt of burning the first time I used the heater in a while - dust on the heating element I always put it down to

That sounds right for me, although I've never bothered resetting the ECU with anything I've done to the car maybe take it for a spirited drive, see if the idle helps itself? The new O2 sensor is probably what's throwing the idle off, but the ECU reset should have sorted that I'd have thought

Yes matey not had the heater on for a while.
Did the idle reset because it was idleing @ 900-950 rev's.
Changed the o2 sensor because when it was mot'd he said the emissions were up and down.
Also seamed to be using a lot of petrol of late.
When I changed it I put some copper grease on the thread.Could this be the grease burning off.

Thanks for the help buddy.

i just finished with the ajdustment of the idle.i followed all instructions given above and everything went fine.it was very simple and took me less than 2 minutes.now the idle is much better than before but not perfect.a little trembling remains.so now i guess i have to clean the MAF sensor.
thanks a lot for the instructions guys.if anyone has something deferent to suggest please do so.