I've got 3 cars about to go through the MOT. With the new computerised systems the 7 day free retest seems to be a thing of the past, so for those of you who do your own MOT pre-test checks, here's my checklist that I use (plagerised and ammended from several web sources). It takes around 1 hour, and gives you a good idea of what needs to be done to pass the MOT.



[u][b]Cockpit Checks[/b] [/u]
These checks include those that can be done from the drivers seat or inside the car.

[b]Steering wheel
Windscreen and Mirrors
Doors
Steering wheel
Handbrake
Footbrake
Seat Belts
Seats[/b]


[b]Steering Wheel Checks[/b]

Look over the steering wheel and column for any cracks and / or looseness

Move the steering wheel from side to side, and up and down. Make sure that it is not lose on the column.

Do the same check while steering the wheel from left to right.

Check and make sure there is not any unusual movement.


[b]Windscreen and Mirrors[/b]

Check windscreen is free from any cracks or damage that would inhibit the drivers view of the road.

Small stone chips are acceptable but should be dealt with if they increase in size.

If there's any real damage to Zone A (Swept area by wipers on drivers side) you'll probably fail if it cannot be contained in a 10mm circle or is a crack that appears to be progressing into that area.

Zone B is the area swept by wipers on passenger side. Damage here must be contained in 40mm circle. Bear in mind stickers etc. are seen as damage to an MOT man!


[b]Doors[/b]

Check and make sure the driver and passenger doors at the front of the car open and close from inside and out and that the locks work correctly


[b]Handbrake [/b]

Check the handbrake can only be activated in the correct manner both on and off. make sure that it only releases when the button is used and that cannot be knocked out of lock.

Listen and ensure you do not hear to many click or that the handbrake can be over pulled
Footbrake

Check that the footbrake when pressed does not slip to the floor.

Check that the footbrake doesnt feel spongy as this could indicate air in the hydraulics. Bleeding the system can cure this problem

[b]Seat Belts [/b]

Check that the webbing on all belts including rear belts if present for excessive wear and tear, for example cuts and/or excessive fraying.

Check that all seat belts buckle and unbuckle correctly.

Check that the seat belts retract properly with ease.

Check all the seat belt mountings are secure and correctly attached.

[b]
Seats [/b]

Check that the front seats are securely attached and if backrests are present they must lock into their upright position.


[u][b] Exterior Checks [/b][/u]

These checks include those that can be done from the outside and under the bonnet.

[b]Steering and Suspension
Footbrake
Shock Absorbers
Windscreen Washer and Wipers
Electrical Components
Exhaust System
Vehicle Identification[/b]



[b]Steering and Suspension[/b]

Get Somebody to turn the steering wheel a little while you observe the steeing gear. Check for excess play between the steering wheel and stearing gear

[b]
Footbrake[/b]

Check the brake fluid levels in the resevoir are between the upper and lower points.

Check that the resevoir is secure.

Check all brake pipes, the master cylinder and servo unit for any signs of leakage, looseness, corrosion.

Check both front brake hoses for any cracks or deterioration in the rubber.

Press the footbrake pedal firmly and check the hoses for any bulges, leaks or weakness under pressure.
[b]

Shock Absorbers[/b]

Press each corner of the car then let go. Check that the car rises then settles into its normal sitting position. If the car bounces repeatedly the shock absorber is defective and may need replacing.


[b]Windscreen Washer and Wipers[/b]

Check that the washers and wipers work correctly and are not damaged or worn in anyway - replace any damaged wipers.

remeber to fill up your washer bottle!


[b]Electrical Components[/b]

Check that the horn operates correctly.

Check that the windscreen wipers operate correctly.

Press the brake pedal and check that the stoplights work correctly.

Check the operation of the rear fog lights, including the operation of the warning lights on the panel/switch.

Check that the indicators work correctly.

Check that other components such as stoplights and sidelights do not interfere with the operation of the indicators.

Check that the hazard lights work correctly.


[b]Exhaust System[/b]

Get somebody to start the engine and put a rag over the exhaust tailpipe.

Check the whole length of the exhaust for leaks. repair or replace leaky or damaged parts.

[b]
Vehicle Identification[/b]

Check that number plates are in good condition, fully legible and secure.

Check that the plate numbers and letters are at the required spacing. The middle space should be twice the width of the spacing between the other letters and numbers.

Check the cars VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) and /or homologation plate is present and legible.


[u][b]Raised Car Checks[/b][/u]

These are checks that require looking underneath the car while it is raised. Make sure that the steering can be turned and that the wheels are raised from the ground.

[b]Braking System
Suspension and wheel bearings
Steering Mechanism
Springs and Shock absorbers
Forward drive Driveshafts
Exhaust and Fuel Systems
Wheels and Tyres
Bodywork[/b]


[b]Braking System[/b]

Check brake pad wear and tear.

Check brake discs are not cracked, fractured or soiled and look for signs of general wear and tear.

Check that the brake pipes underneath the car are not split, bulging, corroded or loosely attached.

Check for leaks in the area of the brake calipers or on the brake back plates. Repair or replace any leaky parts.

Check that the brakes are operating correctly by slowly turning each wheel while someone presses the brake pedal.

Take the car for a drive - test the brakes and make sure that you do not vere off of a straightline.

Check the handbrake components for frayed or broken cables. also ensure that the cables are not excessively corroded.

Test the handbrake works and releases on all wheels correctly.


[b]Suspension and wheel bearings
[/b]
Check each of your 4 wheels in turn for freeplay or looseness in wheel bearings, Ball joints, suspension mountings, pivots and attachements by holding the wheel and shaking it vigorously. (hold the wheel with you right and left hand at north and south, and repeat test for east and west).

[b]Steering Mechanism[/b]

Turn the steering wheel from full lock left to full lock right. Check that the wheel turns smoothly and that the tyres and/or wheels do not interfere with any other parts of the car

Check the rubber gaitors on both sides for splits, wear and/or looseness. Make sure they are attached securely with retaining clips.

If power steering is fitted to the car check for signs of damage or leakage from th ethe fluid hoses/connections and pipes.

Check for excessive stiffness or binding of the steering, missing split pin or locking device.

Check for excessive or severe corrosion of the body structure within 30centimetres of any steering component attachment point.

[b]Springs and Shock absorbers[/b]

Check suspension struts for excessive corrosion or case damage.

Check for excessive fluid leakage>

Check for loose mounting points.


[b]Forward drive Driveshafts[/b]

Check the constant velocity joint gaitors for damage and splits.

Check each drive shaft is straight and undamaged


[b]Exhaust and Fuel Systems[/b]

Check that the exhaust system for any damaged, missing or loose components.

Check also for missing/loose mountings or retaining clips.

Check for excessive corrosion and/or rust.

[b]Wheels and Tyres[/b]

Check sidewalls and tread of each tyre on the car.

Check for slices, bulges, tread separation, cuts, lumps or tears in the tyres.

Check for exposure of the tyre ply or cord due to wear or damage.

Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated on the wheel rim.

Check that the valve is sound and correctly seated.

Check that the wheel is not damaged or distorted in anyway.

Check that all car tyres are the same and are the correct size for the car.

Check that the tyre pressures are correct for the car.

Check that the tyre tread depth is within the standard allowed. It is a legal requirement that they are no less than 1.6 millimetres over at least 3 quarters of the tyres tread width surface.

A good guide to tread depth is to use the limiters in the tyres. These are cuts and tabs of rubber lower than the tread which easily tell you when the tread is too low. Basically if the cuts disappear or the tread is worn to the tabs then that area has too little tread depth.


[u][b]Bodywork[/b][/u]

Check over the condition of the entire structure of the car for signs of rust or corrosion in load bearing areas. The car will fail its mot test if corrosion has affected and reduced the thickness of a load bearing area. These areas can include chassis, braking system, pillars, steering, seat belt mountings, anchorages, side sills, cross members, pillars and suspension.

Check for damage and corrosion that exposes sharp and/or dangerous edges as this is likely to cause your car to fail its mot test.

Check your filler cap works and is secure - its on the test!

[b][u]Exhaust and Emissions Checks[/u][/b]

To test your cars emissions properly you will require a gas analyser but a simple colour tune kit also works ok (£20) and will help with tuning too - comes with instructions. I have a krypton tuner but there's no need to go this far as up until 2002 I did everything with a colour tune. However, if you want you can usually blag a test from the local garage for a small fee.

Get the engine running at normal running temprature and make sure that the ignition system is in good tune.

Raise the engine speed to approx 2500 rpm and hold it for at least 20 secs. Allow the engine speed to return to idle and watch for smoke emission from your exhaust. If the idle speed is much to high or if dense blue or back smoke comes from the exhaust for more than say 5 secs the vehicle will probably fail.

Black smoke usually signifies unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaning element or maybe carburettor or fuel system fault)

Blue smoke usually signifies oil being burnt (engine wear)

DAMN good guide that chap :D:D

I shall be using that shortly :D

What is, and where do i get a colour test???

I like that check list too..............

According to that I don't need to remove my illegal numberplates or sunvisor

useful to know looks like im going to fail unless i fix my exhaust then

Cool, cheers Graham


Mark

[quote="richardesty"]I like that check list too..............

According to that I don't need to remove my illegal numberplates or [b]sunvisor[/b] [/quote]
[quote="ClassicFan"]
Zone B is the area swept by wipers on passenger side. Damage here must be contained in 40mm circle. [b]Bear in mind stickers etc. are seen as damage to an MOT man![/b][/quote]

Ahhhhh

[quote="andym323"]DAMN good guide that chap :D:D

I shall be using that shortly :D

What is, and where do i get a colour test???[/quote]

I think they are called 'Color Tune' and it should be available via any decent auto factors. Don't bother with the likes of Halfords, go for a proper place like ARE Ltd. and they are bound to have them.

Basically it's a nifty little spark plug with a glass window in it so you can see into the engine. You start the engine and warm it up. You then turn the iginition off, remove the spark, fit the color tune and restart the engine. You can then see the color of your flame in the cyclinder. At tickove it should be a light blue, if its dark it's too lean, yellow too rich. You then proceed through the other test which include revving and higher revs - you basically look at the colors. When you rev you should see the flame turn yellow (rich) for a second as the engine advances and then go back to light blue. There are about 6 tests in all for varying engine performance levels. All pretty easy as you get a colour chart with the kit - kind of like a Dulex thing.

Watch out though as certain color tunes fit certain engines and some aren't for injection. Most, however, do everything. I have bought an adapter for mine so I've never run into a car it won't work on. Its a great poket stand-by for race days as it's the size of a spark plug!

Outstanding ClassicFan :D:D

I've been praying you'll answer that, got emergency MOT tomorrow, you're checklist has come in rare useful :D:D

Brilliant :D

[quote="richardesty"]I like that check list too..............

According to that I don't need to remove my illegal numberplates or sunvisor [/quote]

Bizzarely the regs just state that you should have:

[quote]Check that number plates are in good condition, fully legible and secure.

Check that the plate numbers and letters are at the required spacing. The middle space should be twice the width of the spacing between the other letters and numbers. [/quote]

Illegal number plates that have non-standard fonts are failed on the 'illegibility' clause or because of the spacing, not because they don't use the set font! Who the hell knows why...

[quote="andym323"]Outstanding ClassicFan :D:D

I've been praying you'll answer that, got emergency MOT tomorrow, you're checklist has come in rare useful :D:D

Brilliant :D[/quote]

Glad it helped. Got one of mine tomorrow at 12.30 too! Still got to refit the door I skinned and resprayed today too. . .

panick is setting in! Wish me luck

[quote="Mark.T"]Cool, cheers Graham


Mark[/quote]

Graham????

James!

And after all that NG chat at work too. . . .

lol


good luck with the test

tee hee, good luck chap :D:D

I am NOT convinced with my cable adjustment, although i think i might be imagining creep now

stop handbrake turning it and leave it alone and it will last until the MOT :P

[quote="andym323"]tee hee, good luck chap :D:D

I am NOT convinced with my cable adjustment, although i think i might be imagining creep now [/quote]

:D:D

Go get yourself a full on conversion kit to an aramid bead race cable - composite cables mean no stretching into position and no more creep ever! Although they do cause you to have a seizure when they snap at the moment you're hanging the back out round a bend - lets just say it involved what seemed like the longest 2 seconds of my life and ended up with me facing a slightly startled race marshall

Still it was a pre-70s classic rally day so you should expect these things. . .

[quote="ClassicFan"][quote="Mark.T"]Cool, cheers Graham


Mark[/quote]

Graham????

James!

And after all that NG chat at work too. . . . [/quote]
Doh, sorry! Couldn't quite remember, but I thought I'd have a reply if I was wrong

Cheers James

So, will my red reversing light pass an MOT?

[img]http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/tiptop/smoky1.jpg[/img]

It might fail the emissions at the moment


Mark

[quote="Mark.T"]:cyclopsani:

[quote="ClassicFan"][quote="Mark.T"]Cool, cheers Graham


Mark[/quote]

Graham????

James!

And after all that NG chat at work too. . . . [/quote]
Doh, sorry! Couldn't quite remember, but I thought I'd have a reply if I was wrong

Cheers James

So, will my red reversing light pass an MOT?

[img]http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/tiptop/smoky1.jpg[/img]

It might fail the emissions at the moment


Mark[/quote]

Don't know about the lights mate - far as I know they have to be in 'good working condition' if fitted so that could mean anything to an MOT man!

On the plus side I passed the MOT - yeeeessssss!

Congrats

Passed mine too, for £92.80!!!!

Never even looked at the reversing lights, which annoyed me just slightly since we'ed spent so much time and effort getting them 'just so'

i think you only need a fog light doesn't matter if you don't have a reverse light at all if i remeber right.

could be wrong though

no. reversing light isnt an MOT requirement. my old 1.5's reverse lights been blown for years. its just for convenience being able to see behind you in the dark (if anyone can actually see bugger all out the back to start with) and so people can see you wanna reverse out of the car park etc

Holy crap, major thread bump there. 3.5 years must be some sort of record

Still, I'm glad you did since mine needs done in the next month and a lot of that list I can check myself.

Must be a record! I can concur with the reversing light situation, you dont need one for the MOT.

haha wow.

was just browsing and needed a checklist and found this. in my defense "Tue Apr 11, 2006 5:29 pm" and "Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:03 am" are [i]very[/i] similar...

useful thread tho

Could make a useful sticky?

its in the Sticky [url=http://www.club323f.com/club323f/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34242]List of Links to Guides[/url]
thats how i stumbled upon it...

Fair play to you for actually using the search facility
A lot of people don't bother

only a year this time but its one of the best guides that i have used ever since joining the club

just hope i havnt missed anything this time round