This is a relatively easy task if you have seen it done. However it took me two attempts to get this right! Also please remember that droplinks should be replaced as pairs.

PART NOS INVOLVED IN THIS GUIDE:
Passenger side Droplink (left in UK) ASL 1625
Drivers side Droplink (right in UK) ASL 1626

Firstly part recognition. A rattle can appear from a few places. The droplink, the bottom ball joint, the track rod end or the bearing are the most common. Less common could be debris, loose brake shoes and various other random problems.

The track rod end normally effects the steering, simply jiggle this and if it makes a noise at the knuckle you have found your problem.



Here is the bottom ball joint. Again give it a wiggle and hold it, if you can here a knocking then there is your culprit.






However onto the guide, you can see if the droplink has gone because it will not be attached on one end or loose.

First of all assemble the tools that you need which are as follows:

A socket set with a 17 ml socket handy
A hacksaw or a junior hasksaw if you want life to be difficult
Plenty of METAL cutting blades (minimum 10 probably less for a normal hacksaw)
Your wrench for getting the wheel off
Locking Nut if you have one
(NOT PICTURED SET OF ALLEN KEYS OR PLIERS)
The replacement drop link
Also it has been brought to my attention that a mangrinder could be used in place of any saws(beware of sparks, if you set your hair on fire it is your fault!!)



Jack up the car and to be safe use axle stands (not necessary but safety comes first)

Next locate the droplink, i have lightened this for easy reference (PLEASE NOTE HOW IT IS NOT ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM BOLT)



First of all try to get the bolts off with a socket set. If you are lucky you will manage and wont have to go through sawing them off. If not proceed with the next steps. You can use a bit of WD40 or similar but i would highly recommend against this as you could get some on the brakes or discs as the droplink is located above these, if you get oil on them you will end up in a serious accident. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

You need to saw behind (nearest the inside of the arch) to get the bolt off if you are unlucky enough as most are to have the bolt rusted on. It might take the use of more than one blade. REMEMBER YOU ARE ONLY SAWING THE BOLT OFF, NOT THE ARM





Next one is a right pain to saw off, especially with a junior hacksaw, a grown up hacksaw which i am not allowed to use until i am 30 (especially and adjustable one makes light work of this second bolt). If you find it particularly difficult then remove the brake disk which is simply done. Just remove the two bolts you take off to change the brake pads, slip the caliper off and then remove the disk.



The next step is the final and most easiest. Just simply attach the droplink and tighten with a 17 ml socket whilst using the appropriate allen key or pair of pliers (preferably allen key) to hold the bolt in place EASY!

Job Done

Thanks to all that helped and contributed for this guide.
Neil F, Paul323f, Murray, Stuartspel

Nice guide.I'm sure I had to use an allen key tho to hold the bolt tight whilst doing up the nut?

damn it you are right paul, i used pliers. Well spotted mate.

edited

thanks paul mate!!!

When I replaced mine, I didn’t even entertain a hack saw I went straight for the mangrinder Lots of sparks = Mmmm

Yep, sparkly shower for me too

May I perhaps add that WD40 also might come in handy!

I have added this mr spel!!! As for WD40 rhrh mate. BAD idea. The droplink is above the pads and disks, get some on there and you are on your way to an early grave. Especially if you repair the pair of them! Its not worth the risk! Thak you for input though!!!

I dont even know what a mangrinder is. It sound like it should be a nickname for my wifes personality

Is this suitable now for going into:

Mazda 323F BA (94 - 98) Guides

blood great Steve thanks for this one, real good photos you managed to get there.

You are welcome Nick pal. Just glad to start giving back to the club as i have gotten so much out of it. Its hard to believe i didnt even know how to change a light bulb in November.

Nice guide mate PM Ronin and ask him to add it to the guides section BA

Have you added this yet Ronin mate?

http://www.club323f.com/content/ba/guid ... droplinks/

Nice one Ronin, quite happy with my first guide, i will be adding more as i get more confident and more experienced.

Thanks

before sawing off the bolts, try getting a decent pair of mole grip pliers and grip the threaded part of the ARB link bolt whilt using a spanner to loosen the nut. You might get lucky and it will give way.

This is the way i did it on the rears