hi there,

I have a 1999 323 BJ, and the TCS off ligh and the ABS light are constantly on.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/PY5xlaw.jpg[/img]

I have read threads and followed vids on youtube, but when i try to group the diagnostics pin it does not work, i cannot get the abs light to show me the fault codes.

When it wouldnt ground with the connection next to the port i grounded to to the battery negative, but that didnt work either. Any ideas as to what i might try nexy#t, please?

thanks for reading,

regards,
ned .

Hi ned,

I did the same as you ned, Googled it and found what I needed as below, it worked for me, can you post what you've tried, and we'll try to see what's gone wrong.

Mine had just the ABS light on (I don't have tcs) and I did this:-

Connector across GND to TBS (numbers E to N on the port).

Plug is as follows:-
AB CD
EFGHJKL
MNPQRS

Jinglebells your a lovely lovely human being, thanks so much.

Do you mean, connect E to N ?

Or should I ground them against the body

sorry for not being bright, I've just woken up

Is there someplace where I can get a chart to interpret the codes?

think I have it

[img]http://i.imgur.com/7ucJzHG.jpg[/img]

okay they are flashing now, weeew!

sorry for the repeat posts, promise its not a ruse to boost my post count, just updating progress as it unfolds. happy to be making progress )

[quote="Ned_"]Is there someplace where I can get a chart to interpret the codes?[/quote]

Yes they are on the web, I can let you have them if you need, e.g. 11 is RF wheel sensor,
51 is system relay etc

I assume you know how to interpret the flashes, i.e. long and short?

Do ask if you need, there's a load of helpful people on here!!

ey there, cheers man. yah I managed to figure it out, one long flash and three short ones = fault code 13 = drivers side rear wheel sensor.

Gonna MOT it next week to get an idwa of what else needs doing on it, before spending any money on it.

I paid 230 euros for it, its a 1.5 automatic and has 70,000 miles on the clock. It's in pretty good nick. However the car test here often is a death sentence for cars if there is emmisions issues or rust.

Hopefully there wont be emissions issues, I reckon I could sort most rust issues, I have a welder and a plasma cutter and more importantly experience, lol, i turned this

[img]http://i.imgur.com/a2U0T4m.jpg[/img]

into this

[img]http://i.imgur.com/WPWKWr1.jpg[/img]

You turned it into a garage ??
Kewl....



_________________________________________________________________
Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

Naaah Gordon,

what Ned means is he's [i]turned it around[/i] with the welder/plasma cutter.

But seriously, never having handled anything like that myself, I have a lot of respect for those of you who can make/fix/rebuild things using such tools.

[b]Patrick[/b]

Actually Pat oxy/acetylene welding is quite cathartic
Watching the little puddle of molten steel turn into overlapping circles..
Getting the V's just right with a MIG or being pedantic with a TIG !

_________________________________________________________________
Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

Unfortunately this is a 'fail' post, however I still hope youse (great Aussie word, that) can still get something out of it.

I have found the hardware, software and (most importantly) instructions to connect to readout from a BA ECU through the 17-pin diagnostics port. However, I have also found (less entertaining) information that explains why I can't use it on *my* car.

It seems you can now connect to certain OBD-I (yes that's dash-one) cars and the BA Lantis may be one of them. What you need is [list]
[*] An android, iOS or PC (windows) device[/*:m]
[*] An OBD-II (yes that's dash-two) ELM327 compatible device ('dongle') that will talk to the android/iOS/PC device[/*:m]
[*] 3 Small connector wires suitable to connect the dongle pins to the appropriate sockets in the diagnostics port. These could be finicky as one end needs t be a small socket and the other a small probe/pin.[/*:m]
[*]"FORScan" program (free version available for testing)[/*:m][/list:u]

By the way, the 'FORScan' program looks more capable than Torque Pro. Connected to my Mazda 3 a cursory look identified more than just the general parameters- it seems to be able to get into some of the other systems as well.

There are already instructions and diagrams on the net so I'll link to them below. However the main issue I encountered was this (quote from snapontools Australia):

[quote]Mazda started introducing live data on Australian vehicle engines and
automatic transmissions in late 1995, starting with 4 cylinder 323/Astina
models. [/quote]
And unfortunately mine's a 6/94! Grrrr!

I assume late-95 is when the Ford-owned swapover / BA-mkII happened.

Anyway, here's some links to help those of you who may be able to get it to read out. If anyone wants photos of my setup let me know and I'll see what I can do.
[list]
[*][url=http://www.snapontools.com.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/19257/AUS_Eunos,_Mazda,_Mitsubishi,_Nissan_Vehicle_Communication_Software_Manuals.pdf]Snap-On Tools scanner manual[/url] with some useful info, in particular around page 15 & following for Mazda.[/*:m]
[*][url=https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.astech.forscandemo&hl=en&referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dforscan+demo&pcampaignid=APPU_1__qdiV4e7JoHyvgS_xIvIBQ]FORScan Demo for Android[/url][/*:m]
[*][url=http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5]How to connect to pre-CAN Mazda inc. pin-out diagrams.[/url] Note the OBDII pin out is for the socket and NEEDS TO BE REVERSED (i.e. reflected in a mirror, right-to-left instead of left-to-right) for the dongle[/*:m]
[*][url=http://forscan.org/documentation_Android.html]FORScan docs for Android version[/url][/*:m]
[*][url=http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1407]Mazda 323 BA 1.5 16V 1996[/url]. includes pics of the connections in-situ.[/*:m]
[*][url=http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5&p=5]How to connect FORScan to pre-CAN Mazda[/url] And again, pics of the connections in-situ.[/*:m]
[*][url=http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13021/mazda-lantis-323-1997-obdi-or-obdii]Connection to 1997 BA[/url]. Lists success in a comment underneath.[/*:m][/list:u]

Hope this helps,
[b]Patrick[/b]

[quote="jinglebells"]Hi ned,

I did the same as you ned, Googled it and found what I needed as below, it worked for me, can you post what you've tried, and we'll try to see what's gone wrong.

Mine had just the ABS light on (I don't have tcs) and I did this:-

Connector across GND to TBS (numbers E to N on the port).

Plug is as follows:-
AB CD
EFGHJKL
MNPQRS[/quote]

I have the ABS light on at the moment (1999 323F BJ 1500) and have tried linking these terminals, but the ABS light just stays on without flashing a code. Is there a particular sequence ie ignition on before linking. I will have another go tomorrow then. This is a link to my post in another section. Thanks in advance.
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=60346

[quote="Phil H"][quote="jinglebells"]Hi ned,

I did the same as you ned, Googled it and found what I needed as below, it worked for me, can you post what you've tried, and we'll try to see what's gone wrong.

Mine had just the ABS light on (I don't have tcs) and I did this:-

Connector across GND to TBS (numbers E to N on the port).

Plug is as follows:-
AB CD
EFGHJKL
MNPQRS[/quote]

I have the ABS light on at the moment (1999 323F BJ 1500) and have tried linking these terminals, but the ABS light just stays on without flashing a code. Is there a particular sequence ie ignition on before linking. I will have another go tomorrow then. This is a link to my post in another section. Thanks in advance.
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=60346[/quote]

Hi Phil,
It should work ok. No, don't turn the ignition on until the terminals are connected. That's because you risk shorting something out, bear in mind that there are live 12v terminals in there and you don't want to connect that to ground!
In the video (strange) he uses the car body (or battery negative terminal) for the Ground (GND) whereas there should be a ground in the plug, as described in the preceding posts and pictures.
If your light doesn't flash then the terminals are not connected properly. First check I would make is that the GND terminal is actually grounded, so get a multimeter on there and check the resistance from that terminal to the body is zero.
Do let us know if you need further help.
In my experience the most likely cause with the BJ of this age is one or both rear wheel sensors, but it would be an expensive game to just replace all the bits one by one until the light goes out!
.

[quote="jinglebells"][quote="Phil H"][quote="jinglebells"]Hi ned,

I did the same as you ned, Googled it and found what I needed as below, it worked for me, can you post what you've tried, and we'll try to see what's gone wrong.

Mine had just the ABS light on (I don't have tcs) and I did this:-

Connector across GND to TBS (numbers E to N on the port).

Plug is as follows:-
AB CD
EFGHJKL
MNPQRS[/quote]

I have the ABS light on at the moment (1999 323F BJ 1500) and have tried linking these terminals, but the ABS light just stays on without flashing a code. Is there a particular sequence ie ignition on before linking. I will have another go tomorrow then. This is a link to my post in another section. Thanks in advance.
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=60346[/quote]

Hi Phil,
It should work ok. No, don't turn the ignition on until the terminals are connected. That's because you risk shorting something out, bear in mind that there are live 12v terminals in there and you don't want to connect that to ground!
In the video (strange) he uses the car body (or battery negative terminal) for the Ground (GND) whereas there should be a ground in the plug, as described in the preceding posts and pictures.
If your light doesn't flash then the terminals are not connected properly. First check I would make is that the GND terminal is actually grounded, so get a multimeter on there and check the resistance from that terminal to the body is zero.
Do let us know if you need further help.
In my experience the most likely cause with the BJ of this age is one or both rear wheel sensors, but it would be an expensive game to just replace all the bits one by one until the light goes out!
.[/quote]
Thanks for the reply and I will try again tomorrow (if the rain holds off). Do you know if the light should go out once the fault is fixed by pumping the brake pedal with the diagnostic link in place.

[quote="jinglebells"][quote="Phil H"][quote="jinglebells"]Hi ned,

I did the same as you ned, Googled it and found what I needed as below, it worked for me, can you post what you've tried, and we'll try to see what's gone wrong.

Mine had just the ABS light on (I don't have tcs) and I did this:-

Connector across GND to TBS (numbers E to N on the port).

Plug is as follows:-
AB CD
EFGHJKL
MNPQRS[/quote]

I have the ABS light on at the moment (1999 323F BJ 1500) and have tried linking these terminals, but the ABS light just stays on without flashing a code. Is there a particular sequence ie ignition on before linking. I will have another go tomorrow then. This is a link to my post in another section. Thanks in advance.
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=60346[/quote]

Hi Phil,
It should work ok. No, don't turn the ignition on until the terminals are connected. That's because you risk shorting something out, bear in mind that there are live 12v terminals in there and you don't want to connect that to ground!
In the video (strange) he uses the car body (or battery negative terminal) for the Ground (GND) whereas there should be a ground in the plug, as described in the preceding posts and pictures.
If your light doesn't flash then the terminals are not connected properly. First check I would make is that the GND terminal is actually grounded, so get a multimeter on there and check the resistance from that terminal to the body is zero.
Do let us know if you need further help.
In my experience the most likely cause with the BJ of this age is one or both rear wheel sensors, but it would be an expensive game to just replace all the bits one by one until the light goes out!
.[/quote]

Made up a link lead today with decent ends on, but when connected as shown the ABS light will still not flash a code, so stumped now. Still need to check pin is grounding, but need to get a new battery in my meter.

[url=http://s187.photobucket.com/user/Holloway_album/media/IMG_20171229_134318_zpsmhuovgc2.jpg.html][img]http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x179/Holloway_album/IMG_20171229_134318_zpsmhuovgc2.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=http://s187.photobucket.com/user/Holloway_album/media/IMG_20171229_134306_zps1xre0n66.jpg.html][img]http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x179/Holloway_album/IMG_20171229_134306_zps1xre0n66.jpg[/img][/url]

[quote="Phil H"]

Thanks for the reply and I will try again tomorrow (if the rain holds off). Do you know if the light should go out once the fault is fixed by pumping the brake pedal with the diagnostic link in place.[/quote]

That's the normal way, if the codes flash then you pump the brake pedal 10 times. But if there's no codes ....
Keep trying though. Check the abs pin is really "grounding", as discussed above.
Maybe something else is causing the problem. For example the sensor may be not faulty but the reading it's getting is not as the computer expects. For example if the abs ring is gunged up? I'm clutching at straws a bit, but you can see where I'm coming from. Maybe it was a fleeting temporary electrical or mechanical problem that put the light on and now the problem has temporarily fixed itself.
Which leads me to ask, has anything else happened to the car just before the abs light came on?

.

[quote="jinglebells"][quote="Phil H"]

Thanks for the reply and I will try again tomorrow (if the rain holds off). Do you know if the light should go out once the fault is fixed by pumping the brake pedal with the diagnostic link in place.[/quote]

That's the normal way, if the codes flash then you pump the brake pedal 10 times. But if there's no codes ....
Keep trying though. Check the abs pin is really "grounding", as discussed above.
Maybe something else is causing the problem. For example the sensor may be not faulty but the reading it's getting is not as the computer expects. For example if the abs ring is gunged up? I'm clutching at straws a bit, but you can see where I'm coming from. Maybe it was a fleeting temporary electrical or mechanical problem that put the light on and now the problem has temporarily fixed itself.
Which leads me to ask, has anything else happened to the car just before the abs light came on?

.[/quote]No not really. The only thing was a shock absorber failure (due to leakage) and that caused a rattle at the rear, but wouldn't expect that to set the ABS off. I have removed and cleaned the front sensors and checked the rears (can't get them out) are not clogged up. Will keep at it. Think I am correct that E is ground terminal. Thanks for the advice.

Another couple of possibilities: the ABS and/or another ECU has failed. Also check the fuses- the ABS unit not being powered is likely to render it unable to return a code.

If the ABS unit fuse seems OK and there's no relay, try pulling the ABS fuse and seeing if you can initiate a different response. It's possible that doing this may deactivate the ABS light entirely, including during the ignition-on warning lights check. If so, at least you know you're getting power to the unit.

[b]Patrick[/b]

[quote="Phil H"]No not really. The only thing was a shock absorber failure (due to leakage) and that caused a rattle at the rear, but wouldn't expect that to set the ABS off. I have removed and cleaned the front sensors and checked the rears (can't get them out) are not clogged up. Will keep at it. Think I am correct that E is ground terminal. Thanks for the advice.[/quote]

Yes, Ground is E, ABS is N.

Your jumper wire looks good, but you could try using the negative side of the battery as Ground.

Note that D is 12volts, so don't touch that!

The other way of doing it is to connect an LED from D to G, as G is the ABS output. The LED should then flash the same is the ABS light should.

Patrick's advice above also looks good.


.

[quote="jinglebells"]
The other way of doing it is to connect an LED from D to G, as G is the ABS output. The LED should then flash the same is the ABS light should.


.[/quote]
Just to clarify my above post, you need the jumper wire as well as the LED. Also I should say I've never had to do it that way, because for me the ABS light on the dash has always flashed with the jumper wire in place.
.

[quote="Phil H"]No not really. The only thing was a shock absorber failure (due to leakage) and that caused a rattle at the rear, but wouldn't expect that to set the ABS off. I have removed and cleaned the front sensors and checked the rears (can't get them out) are not clogged up. [/quote]

I'd say it's faintly possible that the oil from the shock absorber may have got on the abs ring or sensor and caused a temporary problem. If they're all clean now then that would explain the absence of codes, and a system reset should do the trick.

I had a shock absorber leak on my old BA, there were a lot of drips on the floor ! but it didn't have abs.
.

[quote="jinglebells"][quote="Phil H"]No not really. The only thing was a shock absorber failure (due to leakage) and that caused a rattle at the rear, but wouldn't expect that to set the ABS off. I have removed and cleaned the front sensors and checked the rears (can't get them out) are not clogged up. [/quote]

I'd say it's faintly possible that the oil from the shock absorber may have got on the abs ring or sensor and caused a temporary problem. If they're all clean now then that would explain the absence of codes, and a system reset should do the trick.

I had a shock absorber leak on my old BA, there were a lot of drips on the floor ! but it didn't have abs.
.[/quote]Thanks again, made up another lead today and checked the ground terminal was actually grounding and still no joy to get a code. Have also tried the pump brake pedal 10 times with the link in and that does nothing, so am out of ideas. Will end up going to my local garage, but if they do not have anything to read it then it is going to be a Mazda main agent, ouch, car is hardly worth it.

[quote="pitrack_1"]Another couple of possibilities: the ABS and/or another ECU has failed. Also check the fuses- the ABS unit not being powered is likely to render it unable to return a code.

If the ABS unit fuse seems OK and there's no relay, try pulling the ABS fuse and seeing if you can initiate a different response. It's possible that doing this may deactivate the ABS light entirely, including during the ignition-on warning lights check. If so, at least you know you're getting power to the unit.

[b]Patrick[/b][/quote]Thanks, will try that.

[quote="jinglebells"][quote="jinglebells"]
The other way of doing it is to connect an LED from D to G, as G is the ABS output. The LED should then flash the same is the ABS light should.


.[/quote]
Just to clarify my above post, you need the jumper wire as well as the LED. Also I should say I've never had to do it that way, because for me the ABS light on the dash has always flashed with the jumper wire in place.
.[/quote]
Thanks, just to be sure, LED in D to G and jumper in E to N.

Hi Phil

Try these links:-


http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/#restraint

http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/04-02.PDF
.

[quote="Phil H"]
Thanks, just to be sure, LED in D to G and jumper in E to N.[/quote]

and this link for the LED method, although this is for a 626, it may help, noting that V is GND as well as E:-

https://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/Mazda ... 10-626.php
.

Thanks will take a look.

Hi Phil,

Just thinking still that the fault may have been a temporary one and gone, so have you tried the other 2 methods of clearing the codes, i.e.:-

(1) Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and re-connect.
or
(2) Do 3 start / stop cycles, i.e. start car, drive it up to 20 mph, stop and remove key, repeat twice, then when you start the 4th time the system should reset the ABS light if there have been no faults generated in those 3 cycles.

[quote="jinglebells"]Hi Phil,

Just thinking still that the fault may have been a temporary one and gone, so have you tried the other 2 methods of clearing the codes, i.e.:-

(1) Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and re-connect.
or
(2) Do 3 start / stop cycles, i.e. start car, drive it up to 20 mph, stop and remove key, repeat twice, then when you start the 4th time the system should reset the ABS light if there have been no faults generated in those 3 cycles.[/quote]

Thanks, will try that.