Make the exhaust 3-1 and 3-1 and 2 pipes to the rear of the car..
Or even to the middle and to go sideways ending right after the fron door

well to make it less surprising i do want to go for a sidepipe, but MOT regulations here in Holland say that we only may have 1 sidepipe on either left or right... so thinking about a valve inside the exhaust or something ... maybe..

here another photo of the test-engine2

How much do you cut from the fire wall?

Well.. the idea is to cut it open for only the gearbox, but on the other side i want the engine to go more in to the car due to weight distribution. So if needed i will cut it futher open to place the engine more backwards. But if i do, the gearboxshifter will go futher backwards and then the seat needs to go also backwards, have to adjust the rollcages etc etc etc ... ORRR need to make a different gear selecting shifter/leaver.

thoughts thoughts....

Next stop is rear axle assembly,get some more parts, make that piece fit.

your placement in the above photo already looks much further back than the original mounting position, especially with the gearbox weight being moved completely!

Sounds like loads of work to move the assembly back by a few inches?

I have another question - are you making a custom intake with this setup? Or going ITB's?

As you know best, the stock throttle body is above the gearbox when original mounted. So yes i need to make a custom intake, Easiest and cheapest way is chopping up the KL31 intake straight neck and make a different collector and weld that to the runners....

The most bad-ass solution are throttle bodies, but how to do that with turbo's?? need a casing as well.. so i'm not sure yet
I already have started a setup based on GSX1300 individual bodies, but put those away for later on..

The intake has a low priority, chassis mods are the most important right now.
most plausible situation is the chopping part.

ah for some reason I thought you were going NA mate.......following this thread intensively now

i'am at first, have to see what to do later on, first step/goal is 250bhp N/A at 900kg
The need of more power is always been big... so lets see what happens to the chassis after this mod'

250bhp N/A at 900kg will be amazing in itself dude!!!!!

You could always use cables for the gear shifter.Or dual lever mechanism..
My friend done a 1.8 turbo engine swap in his RenaultBulgar, and he kill everything to BMW M5's on the road..Engine placement is at the rear and he used clutch cables to operate the gears..It works really nice. The car is little more than 700kg and the power unknown as it spins the tyres on the rollers at the dynos..

Update : 03-05
Yes, i have done something,

Modified the hubs,
Swapped the hubs left to right and right to left,
Noticed that i need a different steering column the turning point is now in front of the shocks and now the steering is the wrong way around.... (maybe fit the British market... ) iff i turn left the wheels go right...

took out several parts :
bonnet lock and cable
Seat
Gear shifter
Handbrake
Engine support bracket

Find out that there is a big amount of rust... inside the car and i have determine the location of the new gearbox shifter, when the engine is mounted as shown (above) the shifter will be place 16cm backwards... it will do if i run with a shortshifter inside the RX7 gearbox..

Next stop, removing :
Gastank
Brake lines
Rear subframe assambly
middle support frame of the dashboard


maybe tomorrow

Yet again a update 05-05 :

Removed several parts as commented above. many parts has left the chasis hoping never to come back on.
Also tried to see how it will go with the gearbox and tried also a better one ( RX7 TurboII gearbox ) luckly i have a fitting friction plate for the clutch so that wont be any probleme. only problem will be the transfer axle, i have one of a MX5 that will fit the S4 (non turbo) gearbox... sooo have to figure out that one.

Removed :
Gastank
Brake lines
Fuellines
Rear subframe assambly
middle support frame of the dashboard
Mounting plate for the ecu
and
removed the test-engine2

next stop, waiting for parts for the rear subframe, decide if i am going to make a new subframe aaand chopping the chassis

You could get another gear to fit in between the steering column gear and the rack. Theoretically that will translate steering in reverse so it will give you left is left and right is right. Though it depends on the rack and if you really want to bother with that. I hope that makes sense and I don't sound like an idiot lol

I understand what you are saying, maybe that is not a bad idea. I will see what i can do with that! A whole rack is easier but may e more expencive..

Yeejj more carparts
Rearlower wishbones, tomorrow i will add those to the subframe assembly to test fit it

well, last week i was a bit ill, so basically did nothing only did a bit of thinking.

tonight i will assemble the rear axle with the 323 hub-carriers and try to fit it underneath the car.
the hard part is getting the long lateral bolt out of the hub..

exciting times

Edit : Update 13-05:

I have assembled the rear axle, the main assembly of a MX5, rear lower wishbones of a MX5 and the hubs of a 323GTR. I had to make some adjustments and realize that the rearlower wishbones don't fit propperly. The lateral linkarm has no room to fit the hub. And also a big problem is that i am 20mm short on both sides. So i have to make those lower wishbones myself.

Besides that, it is not a probleme to test fit the whole axle, So I have tried to fit the complete MX-323-gtr axle underneath the chasis and that gave me some interesting thougths the main assembley fits right between the main chasiscarriers? , this is sure enought for me to make a big giant hole in the rear of the car to make it fit even more

next step(s) :
purchase a engine-maintenance-jigg and convert that (with the one i have) into a chasisrotating jigg, than i can weld every thing better
cut a bigass hole in the back
collect a MX5 steering rack
Start wondering how to fit all of it in one nice piece without getting to much weight in it...

update update update

Nice!!!

Next update :

I have made more and more plans, only i am afraid to cut into the car ...
So i have to sum up some bits and pieces which i need to do first before chopping up the chassis :

Collect a MX5 steering rack
Make new lower wishbones
Weld-up the rotten bit inside the chassis
Modify the spacer-plate between the test-engine1 and gearbox (maybe mount the TurboII gearbox) it has to much material on the sides.
Make engine mounts on the engine side

Than if that is done the moment of truth is there, cut the chassis.
First removal of the rear cross member in the rear (underneath the backseat) and the 'spare tire plate' (which i made years ago) Than if that is gone i can make the mx5323gtr rear subframe fit between the chassis beams. if that is done i can put the car back on his wheels if necessary. Than it will become clear how far i need to cut the propshaft tunnel for the new gearbox and axle's



Oh before i forget, i have done some measuring, and removed of some extra weight. the crossmembers underneath the seats and a seat mounting points
I also removed the doors, and trunklid which makes it more 'workable'

Well, some of you have allready seen it.

I made a jigg for the BG to make it roll-over.
then i can weld the tunnel for the propshaft and make the chassis more stiff.

next step, steering rack, tunnel and rear subframe

Awesome that is Adri! Nice work.

Do you think she will be back on the road next year?

i do hope so,

goal is JAE September 2018..

i have the parts to make it.. it is only the time which is hard to get my hands on.... :P

I make little progress, small steps but i can complaint about the results


The new tunnel for the propshaft and gearbox, last bit need to be done.

AND the rear axle, differential assambley fits between the chassisbeams. with out cutting a tankass hole in the rear of the car..
Have to figure out the height of the frame and the ground clearance. but so far this looks good. (it's now clamed)

Cracking work Adri! Keep us updated

What are you hiding with that hand??
A 2jz motor???

VQ37VHR.... 350 hp (260 kW)@7,400 RPM and 276 lb·ft (374 N·m)@5,200 RPM

nahh it was just the light at the sealing which made my camera go all bonckers.
I'm still going with the KLZE

Update 31-10

Well, because I have a new house, which is pretty much done (so far) I’m currently doing some gardening but I am also busy with the BG.
maybe 1 of 2 evenings a week...

I was kind of struggling with the rear assembly. determination of the height and way of mounting... well, I have that sorted now. I bought a piece of square tubing 80x30x3 and made a pre-assembly for the rear sub frame. This bit will become one with the chassis, weld it to the chassis members.
After that I will be able to make the whole rear sub frame fit the car.

If you look at the photo, you will see that there is giant hole in the car. This was necessary for positioning the pre-assembly frame. It will be covered with a sheet of aluminium to keep the weight as low as possible. All the unneeded metal will be cut away for weight reduction.

I hope to have this year the engine sitting in place looking at the rear diff.
See how that works out..

Interesting work as always Adri! Hope you and the family are settling in to the new house well