I've been to 3 mechanics guys can't seem to figure it out. No error codes in ECU diag.

Car idles fine, and if I slowly accelerate all good, it seems to pull, but when I floor it... it chokes and misfires.

I wouldn t mind but in a busy city sometimes you have to take off... once it couldn t and a guy almost hit me.

I changed spark plugs, cleaned MAF, verified TPS and adjusted... replaced fuel pump with a new one... problem still persists.

https://youtu.be/NwH3rm2qD7E

So when I slowly rev you can see it goes fine. But thrusts juat make her choke and misfire.

I'm really thinking of abandoning it... it just takes me too much time and mechanics here are so dumb jesus... every timeI take the car back, 2-3 screws are not placed.

Grab 4 injectors from the wreckers & put them in !
May help / Can't hurt !

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Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

is this the v6? If so it sounds like my xedos 9 did when i bought it. It was the timing belt out by one tooth on the cams. I found that turning the dizzy clock wise as far as it would go improved things.( top connector towards windscreen) fuel consumption was higher than it should be but car was drive able. Try this but mark where the dizzy is set before moving. If the chocking is improved then its timing belt change time. PS a timing light showed me my timing was spot on but the spark is timed from the crank not the cams

Nobody can seem to test/fix injectors. No chance finding scrape ones here.

I found from 2.5 v6 from ford probe do they fit ?

Can you pls tell me more about the dizzy clock what it is ? I can t quite figure it out.

Mechanic said it might be timing but literally won t do it. I can t find a mechanic that will work on the mazda.

Yes , it s the v6

there are 2 12mm bolts that hold the dizzy in place loosen them and rotate the dizzy towards the windscreen but mark where it was before moving. it will either make it better or will cause it to cut out. If it cuts out rotate it towards radiator. I must stress this will not fix it but if it is because of a slipped timing belt it will improve things. If it does improve you will know its the timing belt not set correctly. I would've said to remove timing belt covers and check the cam alignment marks but its not the easiest thing to do.

I m sorry man i m so dumb... i can t figure out what the dizzzy means. Could you point it out on this image ? Thanks for the responses by the way.

https://postimg.org/image/wb8qp2acp/

Okokok i got it man the distributor. 2 big bolts, loosen and adjuat, just like the TPS . Thx

Hi, couple of ideas:

backfiring and misfiring under acceleration: Could be a lean mixture. Should be able to check by measuring the O2 with a sensor up the pipe.
- Check injectors, fuel pressure, sensors etc. maybe even clogged fuel filter.
- Check for leaks past the MAF, e.g. intake manifold joints, induction pipe (rubber cracks).
- Your O2 sensor may not be working properly.
- Does it happen when the engine is cold? I noticed it was warm in the video. If not when cold, then "choke" (enriched mixture through the ECU) is aiding the issue, likely pointing to a lean mixture generally.

Also your ignition system may be weak and/or plug gaps incorrect. Under the WOT the is more compressed charge in the cylinder and the spark has a stronger barrier to cross.

Timing, etc: How old are your mechanics? Look for an old(er) mechanic. You need someone who understands manual timing adjustments, i.e. someone in his 40's, 50's, 60's etc. But not too old, he won't cope with the electronic injection/ignition!

Patrick

Playing with the distributor adjustment didn t help. No change whatsoever.

Thx for the tip though.

Pitrack, fuek filter is about 3 months old, car has probably been driven for 2 weeks in that time.

Injectors can t be checked here. All shops reject me...

Mechanic is over 40 he prolly knows his stuff... it s not the age, it s the shitty country.

It happens no mather the temp. Cold, hot, stepping the gas hard will choke it and cause booms in the exhaust.

O2 sensor like the MAF one right after air filter ? I just cleaned it.. and no error code. Wires on it seem fine. Or the Lamba sonde ?

I don't think it s syncs though.

I was cleaning intake with some spray, start it, all just fine. Check oil, level, pour in half a litre, check leads a little ( unplug and plug back ), start engine, choking begins. It could not just have desynced like that right ?

After the air filter is maf and air temperature..
O2 sensor(also known as Lambda sensor) is measuring the exhaust gasses for oxygen.It's placed right after the exhaust manifold.. it may be the problem of your car...
It can still work but slowly,thus meaning that the car didn't get the right info on time and make this shitty behavior..But then the ecu should put error code for it..
You can try this methood to see if there is any faulty injectors:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY

O2 sensors are fitted to exhaust down pipes. The sensor you are thinking after the maf will be intake air temp sensor. You may be able to check cam timing on the front set of cams which isn't too difficult. Align the crank to top dead centre and check cam marks are lined up. You may be able to remove just a few of the upper bolts and pull the cover back enough to see the markings. The crank rotates twice to every cam rotation so you have a 50/50 chance of it being there or 180' out and need to rotate the crank more time. If you're not sure where the cam markings are I'll try to get pics for you as my timing covers are off at the minute

Right now I'm leaving town and I can't see the car for another whole week. But yes, any pictures can help ! I can send them to the mechanic and when he has time he and my pops can meet and if he can look at it.

Yeah, no error codes. I know the diag works since unplugging something does give a code.

Wow that cleaning injector setup is siiick ! I might try it but... I took it to a shop and they said that if they remove it from the rack, the worn off rubber seals might break. Remember it's v6 so I have 2 racks with 3 injectors each. If the seals break when I remove them... I can't put them back.

But then if injector is clogged... why doesn't it sometimes misfire during idle ? Why only when flooring it.

Thanks for the responses guys !

front or left head cam. 1 mark rear or right head 2 marks

Wow man thanks a lot ! As I won't buy insurance and mechanics will refuse me, I'm planning to do this all on my own and start disassembling it. If i fail to put it back I'll just sell pieces.

Tell me, do I need an elevator to get it going ? I have a garage with dig under the car, so i can get under safely.

I can see that the damn coolant hose is right between the two cams pulleys... it can get messy xD

Still.. how come I did move the distributor and no change ? Shouldn't it feel a change, like a desync if I adjust it badly ?

I always assume when people ask Q's that the basics are in order

How many klm / miles on motor ???
As others have now stated the belt may've skipped a tooth but that's so rare
it's not funny and would need to be very lucky/unlucky to do so

How poor / contaminated can petrol be in your Village ??
Maybe draining the tank & rechecking ALL filters again may be in order !!
And that then leads you back to the injectors possibly...
6 injector seals should be easy enough to order from http://www.rockauto.com

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Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

the ecu would have compensated for you moving it but under load it wouldnt have been able to compensate enough, strange as it may sound, because the ecu can compensate enough and cams are retarded together the 2 wrongs almost make it right. However the pistons are still not in optimum position so it would run but with less power per stroke.
you dont need to lift engine much but you will be removing the engine mount on that side for access along with all of the belts etc. The rear timing cover is a nightmare to get off due to the limited space but is possible.(after skinning all of your knuckles you may not believe me but it is) I would honestly just try and pull them back to try and look and only remove them if you can see that my diagnosis is right. If you've not changed anything in there and it has slipped the tensioner is most likely at fault and will need to be replaced so if your in that deep its best to replace the belt at the same time. The belts and tensioners are exactly the same through all of the k series v6's mx3 mx6 probe etc are all the same. I've changed my own timing belts 4 times (4 different engines) and not had to replace the pulleys (helps keep cost down)

Before needing surgery to your hands
I'd also check for fuel pressure too perhaps !

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Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

When I bought the car it had 74 000 km . Now... after 500km the counter got stuck, so I knew it was tickled. Most probably the car has way over 200 000 km. But this is just how things rule here. I knew the car didn't have 74 000 km's when I bought it. I then removed the dash and reset the counter to 0. Did about 20 000 KM in 3 years, a little less in fact, so car hasn't been moved a lot.

I STRONGLY doubt that the belt may have skipped. I removed the two bolts on the cover from the front of the car ( that plastic is damaged there a little where the screws are ) and I pulled it to reveal the timing belt. I pulled hard on the belt it seems tight AF... And so... it skipped during simple startup ?

Can you please guide me a little on which ones I should purchase from http://www.rockauto.com ?

I mean shipping to Romania will be more than the seals probably... So I might as well go for these ones on eBay

http://goo.gl/6IJ4be

Does anyone know if the 2.5 ones fit the 2.0 ? They seem to have the same code !



Brucey when I'll have time I'll try to see if I can do it myself. The engine is oily everywhere too, oil dripping sometimes from underneath and trust me, I replaced the seals twice, at two mechanics, and it still drips. So I'm actually planning to dismount the engine completely, and as mentioned, if I can't put it back... I'll just sell the parts.



Fuel pump has been changed. I have pressure. Before changing the pump, the car would just choke, now it actually misfires like a bomb it goes KABOOOMOMOOMOM ! ) So I guess it's actually getting a little more fuel now ?

If it is not enough fuel pressure, it's after the injectors. I might be able to get them cleaned in another city near with one of these.

https://postimg.org/image/sari01f25/

But I'll have to insure the car for that... I'd rather clean them on my own with that method, and oder some seals with the help of MazdaInBris or new injectors from eBay.

Today I will try remotely via my dad to open the fuel cap ( i read on an integra forum that it makes t better ? ) sounds dumb but it's easy enought to try. Then I will try disconnecting the O2 senzor see if it makes any difference.

Problem started after spraying some cleaner in the throttle. So I'm thinking IAC valve , but it would cause idle issues, so I think it's excluded, plus, I checked it via mechanic, it pops when it should.

I also ticlked the leads in the distributor so I might have cracked circuits inside the cap ?

Monday I'm calling shops for distributor Rotor and Cap... and O2 sensor, since the wires are very near the distributor maybe I short it or something.

Car also has electrical problems, right light always shorts the safety fuses, so ...

Vacuum leak as well, I can hear a big hissing noise but I can't really tell where it's coming from ... since engine sounds and a little hidraulic leash adjuster click on the rear side.

So I'm doing it myself ! PHUCK MECHANICS IN ROMANIA !!!

Tutorial for checking car grounds, vaccum leaks, cleaning injectors, and idk... electrical system might require some help though xD Too many wires.

Thanks a lot for the interest and all the responses guys, hope I can eventually fix this wrek and turn it into a beast again.

Injectors are easy enough to be dismantled and refit in the rail!
You do not have to change o-ring if it isn't necessary..
Just when you put them back make sure you grease them so to slide back in their beads.
Don't put too much grease!!! only tiny film just to get them slippery, that's all.
If our rails are with the same holes for injectors and same injector diameters the dimentions are:
Injector width - 8mm
Fuel rail hole - 11mm
o-ring inner hole - 8mm
o-ring width - 2mm
Also the injectors can be fine but they have steel mesh build in them. It's just on the entrance of the injector. That could be dirty and cause the injector not to work properly.

These links may help out you & other guys as well - Just found now off my ebay !

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAZDA-MX5-MK1-2-1-6-1-8-Fuel-injector-Service-Kit-O-ring-seals-dust-bush-filters-/152203026415?hash=item237001dfef:g:Ez8AAOSwYshUZfvr

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/V6-Mazda-Ford-Fuel-Injector-Repair-Service-Kit-Seals-Filters-Pintle-Caps-CSKBO16-/190805299854?hash=item2c6ce1d28e:g:uE0AAOxy6-tR8wqf

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Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

After 12 September ( I have an exam then ) I'll go work on the car for a couple of days, full time.

I'll take off the injectors myself and buy some cleaning compound and test them/clean them with the above solution with battery and syringe.

If the seals will break I will buy new ones.

MazdaInBris are you sure those seals will fit ? They look cheap, and shipping will definitely be a lot cheaper from UK rather than US

Also, if I do get the injectors out, I have an ultrasound cleaning machine for home use, it might work well with the injectors as well ! It's small but I think one injector will fit in !

Thx for the numbers maZZda. I will measure mine when I get to work.

I will probably make a new thread here, with pictures and everything.

Taking fuel cap off isn't a myth, it can help if the breather pipe is blocked therefore creating a vacuum in the petrol tank making it more difficult for the fuel pump to provide enough fuel.

I had this problem: the big PAL fuse for the front lights kept blowing. For me, it was caused by an exposed wire somewhere in the light housing. The plastic sheathing on the wires shrank with age, exposing the wire core, and they shorted. After a long search my mechanic found the problem, wrapped the wire with electrical tape to cover the exposed core, and solved it

Of course, that might not be why your light is blowing the fuse, but it's a good place to start.

S

I also agree with Madaz to ensure the fuel is unadulterated, of good quality and not too old.

Ultrasonic baths are good for cleaning injectors...if the ultrasonic bath is good! Do the al-foil test.

Hiwever I would suggest your first option is to find the 'vacuum leak' and plug it. By 'vacuum leak' you actually mean 'air leak' ços vacuum doesn't leak out, air leaks in... And that would likely be the cause of the backfiring under acceleration by leaning out the mixture beyond the ability of the ECU to compensate. You likely bumped a vacuum hose off (or cracked one) whilst poking around earlier. Locate the leak by squirting some ether or Aerostart around, there will be an increase in revs when you hit the right area. When you sprayed cleaner in the throttle, you may have disconnected a vacuum hose and not reconnected it (or damaged it) . Also you didn't spray on the MAF did you? Cleaners have been known to damage those esp. hotwire MAFs.

Some of your other symptoms worry me too. Oil shouldn't leak everywhere esp. if you've replaced the seals. Oil can be forced out by overpressure in the crankcase by too much blow-by and/or a blocked oil breather or perhaps PCV valve. Check the oil breather isn't blocked and the PCV works properly. Make sure the engine doesn't fume excessively (take off the oil filler cap whilst idling). Bad signs here possibly mean terminal engine problems (well, perhaps fixable but trouble nonetheless).

There's no oil in the coolant (or coolant in the oil) or bubbles (and oil scum) in the radiator, is there?

Patrick

I did spray cleaner in very small percentage on the MAF but after the problem. I checked the MAF, it looks ok ( not burnt off in any case ) and I dried it well before putting it back. Disconncting the MAF makes a big difference in engine revs and stuff, so I think it kinda works ok.

I did try the pulling fuel cap off, nothing changed. Disconnecting the O2 senzor aka Lambda Sonde didn't make any effect at all. I'm thinking maybe that's the problem ?

As for coolant in oil, no, there's no coolant in oil. But the radiator has a small leak somwhere, not too bad yet, but it will be replaced as soon as i fix engine problem. I used some leak sealer in the coolant so it's a little reddish now.

Pitrack_1 I don't get what you mean by "Locate the leak by squirting some ether or Aerostart around, there will be an increase in revs when you hit the right area. "

But I did blow cigar smoke in it and I can't see it anywhere...

Taking off the oil cap doesn't fume too much, but there is a very small line of steam like fume. It kinda takes 3-6 months driving for it to take from Max oil to Min but I don't drive much. And if I park it I can see small oil circles on the ground, I can't really knew where it comes from because it leaks on the car under cover first, then it leaks on the ground. The oil stains are usualy as big as an keyboard big ENTER button.

SerenaJ yes, I'm pretty sure I know where the lights problem is, it's right at the connector to the light bulb. I haven't had time to tape them though.

disconnecting the vaf on mine wont allow it fire up at all. its a pre-ford though, not sure if it makes a difference

Aerostart is "ETHER" in a can - VERY VOLATILE
Great for starting any motor
So if by spraying that near vacuum lines something HAPPENS you've found it
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Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

Yesterday i've found my vacuum leak, it was the entire engine at low pressure and it was sucking air trough one of the sealants...
Do you have erratic idling?When i done my car and repaired the vacuum hoses the erratic idling stoped..
You know that there is a system that sucks the oil vapours from the rocker cover inside the intake manifold . Try to unplug the PCV valve and see if there is any build up vacuum inside the engine.
It may or it may not your problem but still is a plausible.It also may be the rubber o-ring surrounding the PCV valve, mine was cracked and i changed it with another one from scrapped car.
I hope i helped.

I've had a quick skim through this but have you changed the ignition leads? I've had this issue a few times and it was a lack of spark as the leads were goosed!

Guessing Lerch replies late @ night (like me) too as he totally missed this..


Was in his opening statement - lol

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Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..