Hi just joined, I have a 94 323f 1.8auto, it is a great drive... when it runs, which it has not done for a while now, after a lot of trials and tribulations I would like to try a fresh ecu unit, does anyone have one or know of one that might be available, Many thanks, Martin.

Hi Martin,
Welcome. I guess you have a "BA" model (94 was the switch over from BG to BA, but the BG auto was a 1.6, the BA was the 1.8 ) .
Sorry to hear of the tribulations, I'm sure someone on here can help.
Can you let us know what the problems were, maybe another solution can be found.
I think changing the ECU might give the security (ignition key code) some issues, but I'm not the expert on that. Is there anything else I can help with, whilst our ECU (BA) expert comes along?!

Hi Jinglebells, thanks for your reply, Problems started last November when I scorned it and later decided to run it on drive for 10 mins, it cut out after 2 mins at 2000rpm, and it has not run since. I found no injector pulse and suspected the distributor cam position switch, I checked all the fuses and relays, I have checked a lot of cables from sensors to ecu etc.
I bit the bullet and bought a used distributor on Internet with no success, and in desperation I sent my original distributor away to be checked and repaired if necessary again with no success.
I now have no spark or injection, it seems to me the distributor is not getting the correct inputs, and so cannot provide the correct outputs
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thanks Martin

If it's a BA model you can easily check for engine error codes stored in the memory!Here in the club you can find info with the search option.
Stock ECU's are harder to kill than John McClane in the movie "Die Hard"..
You have to check where the problem lies..
No spark, no fuel leans to bad crankshaft sensor, but that's guessing.See what the car tell you and you'll find the bad part.
We'll help with what we can.
Wish you luck!

Hi MaZZda, thanks for reply, it is a BA model but without a diagnostic socket just a box with contacts in that you can rig up with a light so it can flash but, I believe you lose this info if you disconnect the battery, guess what I did!!!
Also this early BA does not have a crankshaft sensor, just a camshaft sensor which is in the distributor, it is very much a mystery, the car has always been ultra reliable and a great drive and I don't want to lose it.

Thanks again
Martin

Hello Martin,

My First thought if you've lost both fuel and spark is an immobiliser issue.

When you try to start it, what does the picture of the key on the warning lights do?

I know that we don't have crankshaft sensor on our BA's, we have a HEI module combined with camshaft driven position sensor wich is in the distributor as you said.It does the work for both camshaft and crankshaft sensors.
What type of distributor you have? I have played alot with mine awile ago just to find out that my problem lies in the ignition coil..
So i'm familiar with M3 distributor cirquits.
No spark means that the ECU doesn't know in what position is the crankshaft so it doesn't know when to shoot the spark, it's the same with the fuel..
Do you have any fuel pressure? Does the pump works?
The ECU has short term memory and long term if i can say so, major problems codes stays even if you "pull the plug" and try to erase them.
Even if they are deleted, once you try to start the car they reapear again.
Does the check engine light stays on when you try to start the car?
Immobiliser is another plauseble causer, but it should let the car just fire atleast one of the cilynders befor cut you out.If you are stoped by the Immo then the light for the key shoud stay on when you turn the key.. even blinking while cranking.

Hi Jinglebells, I don't have a light with a key on it, there is an after market immobiliser alarm fitted (laser line) but it is turned off, and I have traced the wiring to the injector relay and by passed it, don't think the car has any Mazda immobiliser built into it, no chip obvious in the key.
Appreciate the help, keep thinking please.

Martin

Hi MaZZda
Distributor type isB6BF.. P5 T2T57371, petrol pump did run and I did have fuel pressure... Not sure lately though, do not have engine check light, has after market immobiliser fitted but turned off and also bypassed, don't think it has any Mazda immobiliser built in, have had the distributor sent away and repaired so the company says??????

Thanks for help, please keep thinking

Martin

Hi Martin,
There are still loads of possibilities here ..... The BA definitely has a Mazda immobiliser built in, yes it checks the key chip against the CPU / ECU. Dash light is as described by maZZda above, but it may not be a picture of a key, maybe it says 'security' or something. I'll have a closer look at mine !!!

The BA doesn't have an engine check light.... Even the early pre-facelift BJ doesn't, it came in for 2001.

Sorry for loads of small posts instead of one big one, but my laptop/tablet computer is playing up ..... Also, maZZda is right about the distributor, it's a hall-effect one with an integral coil, so yes it triggers the ignition. So it has to be in the right position, i.e. at the right angle (ignition timing), if not then even a perfect distributor won't work. So, how's the timing?

Another thought I had was the fuel tank, After it being not started for so long, 1 is there fuel in the tank! (the gauge might be wrong) and 2 take the fuel cap off and see if there is a rush of air, this does happen with the BA. Then try again to start it.

There are a couple of other threads on here about distributors (I had to change the distributor on my BA) , I'll try to post the thread link. It's topic 431355.
https://www.club323f.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=431355

Hi Jinglebells, thanks again for your help, I have just got in from work, I must admit to being a bit reluctant to venture into the garage and get no further, but I will be brave one of these days. I am decorating in the house as well!!!!
It is reassuring to know that someone else is also thinking of solutions to my problems.
There is fuel in the tank, I have a noid light in one of the injector plugs which does not flash, so no injector pulse on cranking and no spark with plug on lead against cylinder head.
I think I have preserved the timing on distributor, and I have checked the cam belt and sprockets etc

Thanks Martin

hi folks, i followed this trail but it didnt give me the answer to my no spark issue so i would like to piggy back on the question.... i tried a working M3 distro on the car but still did not produce spark (i know the the distro works, i pulled it out of my brother's BA). I know i have to check on the ignition relay near the ecu as well s the fuses.... where else do i need to check for the no spark issue??

Hello tris,
When the ignition is on, is there power to the distributor?

Hi Martin and Tris, and welcome. I'd say if there really is no signal seen at the distributor/injectors it could be an immobilizer problem. When I bought my first BA the previous owner said the immobilizer had caused problems so they had it by-passed. No idea how it could fail just from idling the engine. The factory-fitted immobilizer is hidden away behind a steel plate which is hidden away behind the plastic trim that houses the gear lever. Here's the plate (fixed in with impossible to undo bolts):

I stripped the immobilizer out of my donor Estoril:

I also stripped out the engine ECU:

and the entire steering column (including ignition barrel):

So Martin, if you really do decide to try replacing stuff, I can furnish you with a matching set of bits from a 1.5. I also kept the door and boot locks so the same 2 keys fit everything. PM me if you decide to go that route.
BUT I'm with the others who say it's unlikely to be the root of the problem. Sounds like you've got some solid info about signals to the injectors etc, and there's no harm to also try reading the blink codes (I identified an O2 sensor fault via blink codes). Could be worth checking the cabling continuity or replacing the injector rail (I have that too, off a 1.5).
There is currently an entire 1.8 BA up for £300 in Weymouth:
https://www.freeads.co.uk/uk/buy-sell/m ... yjXwKTMK3A
The bloke said I could have it for £250 but it's too far away for me to collect. He doesn't want to sell it as bits, so maybe take it as a donor car?
And Tris, hopefully your problem will be less hard to solve - you definitely have fuel and compression then, just missing a spark? Anything else you can tell us that might help?

At the engine bay, there is a green relay in the fuse box,It's contacts fails with time. Check it.
Mine has done it twice!!!
There's petrol to drown yourself,voltage to kill you, there's air but no injectors pulses and no spark..
The problems you encounter starts to smell like it...

Edit: the problem is inside the relay, not the conection to the fuse box pins.

Good shout - are you talking about this green relay:

That's a really easy thing to replace - if it turns out to be the root of the problem that is a real winner!

Yes, that's the one.
I hope it is indeed it, so you can drive your car soon.