Hello there, i'm new here!

(The Story)

my girlfriend bought a Mazda 323f BG from 1992 located in the Netherlands, the car drove perfectly at the dealer I was there aswell, no hickups,no stuttering, just perfect!

the next day, we noticed some small misfires on the car, and about 1 day later the car was in such a rough shape it couldn't almost start and if it did you had to drive a car that was bouncing around from 300rpm to 2000 rpm.

she was hard broken also cause she got bad advice from a car repair shop that was not even interested in fixing the problem before we took a big maintenance pack which was unreasonable cause it just had one...

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Moving on,

I told her I would have a look at it, so far we have replaced the

ARM ROTOR
DISTRIBUTOR CAP
4 SPARK PLUGS
BATTERY
MAF Sensor Cleaned

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After this, the car started and was drivable but still, the rpm was moving a lot, not uncontrollable but still would stay at a higher idle or would drop down but would move back up, I noticed the car has it more when the engine is somewhat cold, but the problems are also still there when the engine is hot, only just a bit less.
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I also went out of my way to read the OBD1 out using the Flash code tactic

I found the flash codes to be:
3= distributor(G or G1 signal)
9= Water thermo sensor

let's forget about 9 for now.

Number 3 indicated a problem with the distributor, or perhaps the G or G1,
The G stand for= The G signal and NE signal are generated by the pickup coil, in which the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor, and the signal plate or the timing rotor. The information from these two signals is combined by the engine ECU to comprehensively detect the crankshaft angle and engine speed

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so far I have not found any crank sensor close to the pulley of the crankshaft (bottom of the engine)
and also no cam sensor close to the cams!?

everything I try to find online is just not there! it's almost like this car doesn't even have them or that it was just simply never posted before.

anyhow I hope some people could send me some pics or maybe life lessons about what you guys think is broken with the car.

Also, I would add some videos that give you a view of the problems:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbLy66d ... ackArmando

greetings jack

Hi Jack! This is a sad story, but I hope it doesn't dull you're eventual pleasure of driving a lovely 323f BG. You've given very thorough info which is really helpful. It might be that the dealer had it running up to full temperature before you bought it so it ran smoother. You've replaced a few bits, but you could replace the distributor leads too. Also look/feel along the entire air intake pipe for cracks, or even poor fitting at the end. If excess air gets in there it can run rough. Just wrapping wide tape around the entire air intake pipe can sometimes be a temporary fix (and make sure all air intake connections are sound).
Well done for working out the flash codes! IThermostat is cheap and fairly easy to replace too.
I had a quick look at the diagrams on partsouq but you may be able to locate the temperature sensor from those (be careful - it covers EVERY style of 323 from that year)
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine ... 3112622&q=
For more help, I recommend the far busier Mazda 323 Facebook group - more curremt owners read that, this is a slightly dusty forum just now!

Hello Jack,

In these engines the distributor is effectively the cam sensor.
Have you tested the ignition coil and igniter?
Although I don't think this problem is caused by them!
Like FON says, air leaks could be a problem, or the temperature sensor.