I am puting this thread up for any poor soul who ends up with symptoms like mine on their 323F 2.0 Litre LXI

Car is in really good nick and I have had it from new (Its a 2000 model). It has done 154,000 and has been such a good workhorse. Over the year she has been getting progressively worse with loss of power (when cold) and kangaroo'ing.
I first thought it was a fuel problem so I changed the fuel filter opened up the fuel filter in the tank and made sure all was clean. Next I then changed the fuel pipes in case of any air being drawn in. Its damn hard to find those leaks so I simply replaced with new hose. Still no joy. I eventually took it to a garage who thought it might be an issue with the wastegate actuator :
http://www.club323f.com/club323f/forum/ ... highlight=

Its was not that either. I have now been 'told' it could be the fuel pump which is a Denso on this Mazda Diesel 323F (Thats for the search engine hits!). I hope to get my mate around this weekend who is a diesel specialist.

I will let you know how we get on.

Mazda 6's where notorious for the pumps failing..also denso. so this probably be your answer to your problem.

Does the 6 have the same engine?

My mate has just lost his TS2 6 diesel coz the engine gave up at 106k.
Full service history, and it was progressively losing power over 6 months or so.
I think he said something about a catastrophic loss of oil!

I have now had the fault codes read by a VERY helpful local garage. The fault code that has caught my attention is the this:

P1402: EGR valve electronics.
I am now in mind for thinking I need to blank off my EGR valve altogether. Anybody have any ideas where I can source a blank off plate/cover for the 323F in the UK?

It might just be stuck and need replacing. Im unsure if it would be wise to black it off on a diesel...

I have had the EGR valve off today. The valve was caked full of carbon so I cleaned and made sure the valve, diaphragm and seals were all ok. With the EGR valve off I tried the engine again but to no avail. The engine still seems to be struggling. Things I have eliminated:
- Fuel is getting to pump
- EGR valve intact and working (I think, at least its now clean!)
- Air intake fine.

What could it be:
- Timing?
- Fuel pump?
- Turbo?

Any further thoughts would be most appreciated.

When was it last serviced? Could be the glow plugs ect need replaced?

I doubt if it's the glow plugs. Don't glow plugs just help to start the car in cold conditions? Seems like the OP has a problem until the engine warms up.



I am surprised the engine would run with the EGR valve removed from the engine...or did you blank off the EGR?

no unlike a petrol engine it does not have spark plugs, the desial and air mixture is compress and the glow plugs "glow very hot" and the complression and the head cause the desial to ignight, There for if the glowplugs are crap and not working correclty poor performance will occour

Also engines will run fine with no ERG - The EGR is there for emmisions and also help with preventing detination by improving the compustion stage, but a car could hapiliy run with out one

got to disagree.. glow plugs are only operational for something like 10-15 secs on starting and their purpose is to aid combustion when cold starting.
EGR valves can affect the running if they are blocked or stuck open that's why you blank them off to overide the faulty valve. Sounds like magictorch removed the EGR valve without doing any blanking off?

Yep I removed the EGR valve. It was full of carbon deposit build up but the valve and diaphragm were all moving freely although I did note it would take some pressure to move it! So to check I fired up the engine and observed that:
1) There is considerable pressure coming from exhaust manifold. Enough to move the valve
2) The engine is still struggling without the EGR being in place.

Trust me its not the glow plugs as the engine starts first time every time anytime!!!

I'm having a similar issue with my diesel (and have for more than a year now) no Kangaroo's but it seems to struggle between 2000-2500 revs and then kicks in.

My mechanic mate that works at Mazda seems to think that the turbo may be seizing up. I got a second hand turbo of ebay and I rectified the problem for an hour but the replacement turbo's oil seals had gone and caused the engine to over rev.

I'm now having to wait until I have a week off work (March) so I can take the car off the road and get the current turbo refurbed so hopefully I have something better to report once its done.

Edit... just found this thread that describes some similar problems and how they fixed it.

http://www.club323f.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=42462

Hello, I will consult you to visit any other garage to know the exact reason for your problem. There are several reasons behind loss of power in diesel cars. You can replace some of the diesel usage with Hydrogen and increase the consumption.The fuel oil replaced means a cost saving. Less cash and petrol is a conversational saving.



You can also go through this website http://dieselgrossisten.no/ to learn more about loss of fuel power and kangaroo'ing. You can also find effective solutions of fuel power.