Hi all,

I have 95 plate 323F 1.5 DOHC that running lumpy. I spent a long time last night reading through other people's topics on this issue.

So far I have changed the spark plugs, HT leads, Dizzy cap and rotor arm. I have then checked all the pipes on the intake system, they are all fine except the main inlet pipe which has since been bound and gagged!!
I have followed the very useful MAF guide and all of the voltages check out as they should and I have a continuous circuit from the ECU.
I have also disconnected the O2 sensor and this appears to have no impact on the engine lumpiness.

I am seriously running out of ideas and would really appreciate some more input. Everyone who has had a problem has managed to get it fixed by changing/checking all the stuff I have... am I just that unlucky?

Cheers in advance.

Stu

Check the ignition timing, and check the idle air speed. If it's too low, the engine will hunt/struggle

Thanks for the reply.

I am not able to check the ignition timing myself as i do not have a strobe light and after reading your WARNING in another topic. I figure it's best to leave that to someone else!!

I'll tinker with the idle speed to see if that makes any difference. When the autochoke goes off it really struggles with revvs.

I've got one if you're around Northamptonshire I know it works, as I blinded myself with it when trying to get my Skoda running

I don't remember warning anyone about it, but if I did, it would have been about "messing up the timing can stop your engine running, and then you need to get it timed properly before it will run again" if you have a timing light and a socket set, you're fine

Definitely sounds like idle speed to me though based on your "autochoke" comment

There's instructions on here somewhere on how to adjust it, but I'm bored so I'll type it out for the billionth time

Run engine up to temperature (take it for a spin). With the engine still running, open the bonnet, and open the diagnostic port near the fusebox. Using a paperclip or a bit of wire or something, bridge the TEN and GND terminals (if you're lucky, you have a diagram on the inside of the lid of the port. if not, http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97 ... pinDLC.jpg), when you do this, you'll probably find that the engine stalls, or dips VERY low. This is normal. If the engine is just hunting, use a screwdriver to adjust the screw on the throttle body. I can't remember which way to turn it, but you'll figure it out - one way will lower the idle speed, the other will raise it. If the engine stalls, simply turn the adjustment screw 2 times in one direction, remove the bridge in the port, start the engine and try again. If it won't start, or it's worse, turn the screw 4 times in the opposite direction with the ignition on, and the bridge between the TEN and GND pins.

Basically, bridge TEN and GND when engine is running at temperature, adjust screw until correct, remove bridge. If engine stalls when bridged, turn the screw a fair amount in the hope that it doesnt stall when you try again.

Turn the screw whichever way until it idles somewhere between 750 and 1000rpm (yes you do have to keep running round to check the gauge). The nearer 750 the better. Once done, remove the bridge from the port, the revs should dip slightly, and you should be all set, it should idle nicely

Thanks for the personal guide fella, I haven't had time to go through it yet.
When it is doing the high idle of 1100 rpm it still struggles. The 'autochoke' thing was to illustrate that it nearly dies when the high idle speed drops.

I did have one thought of something I haven't changed yet. That was the fuel filter it is less than 10k miles though. Is it worth changing it? Are they prone to getting blocked up?

If so, can someone point me to it's location. Is it on the firewall at the top in the middle?

Cheers again

No problem

Fuel filters aren't really known for having problems, but it can happen, and has in some cases. If it's new though, I highly doubt that's the problem. It is on the firewall in the middle yeah, but you're most probably looking at the charcoal carbon canister (big plastic tub thing with hoses sticking out of it). The fuel filter is sort of next to it, smaller (about the size of one of those mini coke cans), and has a hose on the top and bottom.

You're definitely certain all cylinders are firing right? And the HT leads are in the correct order on the distributor? Find a photo of the same engine on here somewhere and compare your leads to it

If they're all firing, and the leads in the right order, after checking the idle speed I'd be checking the ignition timing. After that, I'd get a hammer out

HughieW... I think.... just maybe.... I wanna hug you!!!

Good call on the starting again and checking what I have done. After searching on here I found this.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81 ... _A1388.jpg

Double checked the positions of everything and sure enough 2 and 3 were mixed up. Ironically I had been working on the car with my daughter and explaining how important it was to get these in the right place!! lol
She had looked at the original cap and copied it. I double checked it! Everything seemed correct. Weird!!
So it appears the original problem was either plugs, HT leads, Rotor arm or Dizzy cap.

Haha good work! Least it was nothing serious

Glad you got it all sorted Get yourself along to one of our meets (JAE is this coming weekend), I'll accept a box of noodles as a thank you