Ok so car was in service, it worked really well when he replaced the spark plugs.

But after 2 weeks it started faulting again.

Today I played a little with the ignition leads, removing them and putting them back.

Adjusted the throttle a little, played with TEN and GND on fuse box to set the revs to 750

All good.

Some oil was missing so I filled about 500-700 ml of oil, then started engine and it was dying.

After some time it started running but 2 spark plugs are not working.

4 and 5 more exactly.

The leads and distributor are giving sparks, I tested with ground, the spark goes through the ignition leads, I even switched them and still the spark plugs 4 and 5 don t fire.

Can a little to much oil cause this ? I can see some oil on Ignition lead nr. 4... but very little.

Is this rly bad ?

Firstly, are you sure it's not fuel- injectors not working on those cylinders for some reason (e.g. loose ground, connectors, faulty injectors, etc)?

Assuming it's an ignition problem, a few hints:

- Fouling on the outside of the plug/lead/boot can lead to shorting to ground. Clean everything of any oil wiht a solvent. there may be signs of tracking/shorting, also perhaps excessive corona discharge browning of the leads/boot/external plug porcelain. The conditions in the chamber cause considerably more resistance to a spark than ambient air.
- Try swapping plugs from the 2 bad cylinders with 2 good cylinders (perhaps label plugs first, A-F to keep track) and see it the problem goes away/moves/stays.
- Check the plugs as you swap them- are the bad cylinder ones oily/fouled/black? Are they different to the good cylinders? If so, the ignition misfire is likely a symptom of a deeper problem.

Hope this helps and good luck with the diagnosis/fix,
Patrick

Thanks for the answer patrick ! Unfortunately I can't unscrew the plugs as my key doesn t fit and since it's easter time shops are closed... I will try switching them first of course.

If it's the fuel ... that should be bad I don't know how to connect things bad... what could've happened I only unplugged the ignition leads a little from the plugs and distributor, and poured in some oil ... that's all I did and suddenly 2 pistons don't fire...

The spark plugs started working again ... 3 mechanics already denied to work on the car, I finally found someone willing to do it.

https://youtu.be/4Rje8VFvVYc

These are the simptoms. I can get it to accelerate and max revs if I slowly accelerate and don't force the pedal down.

As soon as I step on it it chokes like the engine misfires or something slips and the revs won't go up, the stay there. So basically if I'm in second and I step on it, it just stays at 2k and a misfire sound can be heard.

Slow acceleration works fine but it does randomly misfire sometimes putting pressure on the transmission and drive shafts especially when it comes back to normal.

Idle is normal.

Help ?

Sensor ? I remember removing the spark leads from the distributor, though maybe I shorted the lambda or something.


ECU doesn't read up any codes I did the led TEN GND test. No error codes.

Then I disassembled the distributor cap and found out that the plastic piece under the rotor arm is fissured and metal can be seen. Still, it should cause constant mess not only when stepping on it ? I've checked vacuum with a little smoke nothing seems to come out ... maybe a hole into the air plastic intake where the air filter is ... but I checked , I can t see any.

sounds like the timing is out on the video. When was the distributor cap and rotor last replaced?

I removed the distributor cap and the plastic behind the rotor arm was cracked. Could this couse this ? But how did it crack so suddenly ... ? It was probably never replaced. Will it be an expensive fix ?

Rotor arms range between 4 and 6 pounds. Online so there's postage to add to that but I'd say it's a cheap enough fix.