Firstly Lerch's idea is a good one. Make sure the leads are OK. This requires testing- with your eyes, hands and a multimeter.
cojocariu.adr wrote:
I did spray cleaner in very small percentage on the MAF but after the problem. I checked the MAF, it looks ok ( not burnt off in any case ) and I dried it well before putting it back. Disconncting the MAF makes a big difference in engine revs and stuff, so I think it kinda works ok.
That's a good sign. Note you do need to use a MAF safe cleaner. Even if the solvent you sprayed has 'dried', if it has left a deposit on the MAF it will interfere with its operation. I'm not familiar enough with the car yet to say what type of MAF it is (and mine's not near me).
cojocariu.adr wrote:
I did try the pulling fuel cap off, nothing changed. Disconnecting the O2 senzor aka Lambda Sonde didn't make any effect at all. I'm thinking maybe that's the problem ?
Thinking it is isn't good enough. Those things are expensive. You need to test. This will involve either time, or money, or both. You either need your own independent probe for the exhaust or someone else's. Furthermore if it does show an issue it may not be the problem- just something damaged by something else, e.g. lead in the fuel, or too much fuel in the exhaust, etc. O2 sensor is probably more important under heavy load/acceleration. Also errors from it may e a little while to show up on the ECU unless it's shorted or disconnected, and even then may take a minute or two.
cojocariu.adr wrote:
As for coolant in oil, no, there's no coolant in oil. But the radiator has a small leak somwhere, not too bad yet, but it will be replaced as soon as i fix engine problem. I used some leak sealer in the coolant so it's a little reddish now.
Not sure how these engines take leak sealer, others will know better than me. They can cause issues (the sealers, not the others!
).
cojocariu.adr wrote:
Pitrack_1 I don't get what you mean by "Locate the leak by squirting some ether or Aerostart around, there will be an increase in revs when you hit the right area. "
But I did blow cigar smoke in it and I can't see it anywhere...
Aerostart is a trade same for an ether-based substance in a can that you squirt into the air intake to assist with starting recalcitrant motors. Also known as "Start ya b*****d" in Oz. If you are unsure you can google it. Another hydrocarbon source from a can should do.
I am unfamiliar with cigar smoke being able to assist with starting engines or being known as an analogue for Aerostart!
cojocariu.adr wrote:
Taking off the oil cap doesn't fume too much, but there is a very small line of steam like fume. It kinda takes 3-6 months driving for it to take from Max oil to Min but I don't drive much. And if I park it I can see small oil circles on the ground, I can't really knew where it comes from because it leaks on the car under cover first, then it leaks on the ground. The oil stains are usually as big as an keyboard big ENTER button.
The oil fume level sounds good, no problems there. That oil usage sounds normal, maybe slightly more than usual, you should be fine. You should not use more than 1l/1000km. You also have a small leak from somewhere to be investigated.
Another test with the dizzy- mark first then try rotating it (loosen but not too much) whilst holding the engine at ~2000-2500rpm. Hold the throttle constant and rotate the dizzy, you should hear and notice an engine note and revs change. Find where the revs are highest and it sounds the best, then back off (rotate dizzy in direction of engine/dizzy rotation) a few degrees.
A cracked rubber intake pipe (usually underneath, where you can't see it) is not uncommon.
Sorry I can't be more helpful than these general suggestions.
Patrick
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