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eogbaker
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:14 pm 
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fastmike wrote:
Top man, you're the first to do it as well.

:( Money has been short unfortunately so havent go round to ordering that kit yet :( not sure weather to wait till I can afford that kit or just do it like you have done? what do you think is that kit really worth the extra money?

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fastmike
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:43 pm 
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eogbaker wrote:
fastmike wrote:
Top man, you're the first to do it as well.

:( Money has been short unfortunately so havent go round to ordering that kit yet :( not sure weather to wait till I can afford that kit or just do it like you have done? what do you think is that kit really worth the extra money?


I couldn't say about the MSD module, it looks good on paper, producing 400v from the standard 12v supply to boost the output at the coil. I think you'll be more than happy with a external coil and it can be upgraded easily at a later date.


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eogbaker
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:52 pm 
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fastmike wrote:
eogbaker wrote:
fastmike wrote:
Top man, you're the first to do it as well.

:( Money has been short unfortunately so havent go round to ordering that kit yet :( not sure weather to wait till I can afford that kit or just do it like you have done? what do you think is that kit really worth the extra money?


I couldn't say about the MSD module, it looks good on paper, producing 400v from the standard 12v supply to boost the output at the coil. I think you'll be more than happy with a external coil and it can be upgraded easily at a later date.

Awesome I shall do it as soon as i get my car back from the garage

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silver-machine
PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:08 pm 
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Def do it. I just got the Blaster 2 Coil for £30 off ebay(lucky bargain) and a Standard 4 pin Ignition for £30. A good cheap way to up the performance. I'm crap with electrics but found this easy once I got over my fear of actually starting it. I prepared it all indoors including all the wiring so it took me less than 1 hour under the bonnet to connect it all up.
ps. I didn't want to drill a new hole in the body for the ground wire so I just used a fisheye connector and stuck it on the - battery terminal. I figured that was the best earth on the car :D


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eogbaker
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:25 pm 
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I need to ask do you have a final pic of you coil to distributor HT lead as I have just bought some HT cable and would like to see how you connected the mig welding tip to the lead.

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MrKikker
PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 8:40 am 
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i'm guessing this is still being done with V6'es?


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 3:30 pm 
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MrKikker wrote:
i'm guessing this is still being done with V6'es?


Yes V6's I think it can be done on the smaller ones but not sure of the wiring


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 6:00 pm 
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silver-machine wrote:
MrKikker wrote:
i'm guessing this is still being done with V6'es?


Yes V6's I think it can be done on the smaller ones but not sure of the wiring

which wires do you need?


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 4:49 pm 
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On my v6. It was the red and black from the 2 pin dizzy plug and the yellow(orange) wire from the 6 pin plug. Not sure of the wiring on the 4 cyl engines. I used 17 amp wire on mine and that seems to work ok.


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:55 pm 
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yeah no i mean what kind of information do you need to make a discription for a 1.8 :P the function of different wires etc


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:10 pm 
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guessing the only difference between the models will be the wiring from the dizzy. So I reckon people with a 1.8 would greatly appreciate a wiring diagram as shown for the v6 in this thread.
viewtopic.php?t=19666


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:25 pm 
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i had a look under the bonnet and wrote down the colors, will be searching for their function.


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:34 am 
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just to give this one a little kick, i tried finding which wire is for what, however appearantly Mazda did some funny things with wires etc because mine (or at least the colours) are different from the schedules posted on the site.


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323c
PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:42 am 
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Nice Mod.

Do you think it could be done on a Z5?


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:28 am 
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323c wrote:
Nice Mod.

Do you think it could be done on a Z5?

silver-machine wrote:
MrKikker wrote:
i'm guessing this is still being done with V6'es?


I think it can be done on the smaller ones but not sure of the wiring


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:39 am 
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I'm just about to convert my new v6 as I kept all my bits off my old car. It makes a good difference. It can be done on the smaller cars but as Mr Kikker says, No one has worked out the wiring yet as the colours on your dizzy are different to mine.


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:04 am 
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still working on those wires!

basically i need to look for the "Ignition control module ecu trigger", "ignition coil -" and "ignition coil +" right?


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:24 am 
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That's right. This diagram shows it clearly.
viewtopic.php?t=19666
Do you have the same amount of wires as me then. 2 on the little plug and 6 on the big one.


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:04 pm 
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i have 3 on the little plug and 6 on the big one..


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:41 am 
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Ah ok. like the diagram then. The middle one on the little plug should be your tach signal from the coil then. Reading that topic thread, It looks more complicated then as they talk about putting in a resistor to prevent the rev counter from being killed. I never had that problem as I only had the 2 wires.


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MrKikker
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:08 pm 
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silver-machine wrote:
Ah ok. like the diagram then. The middle one on the little plug should be your tach signal from the coil then. Reading that topic thread, It looks more complicated then as they talk about putting in a resistor to prevent the rev counter from being killed. I never had that problem as I only had the 2 wires.

i should be able to get some sort of signal from that wire using a voltmeter or something?


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Simondo
PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 11:33 am 
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So it gives extra performance and saves fuel? Sounds too good to be true! My car duffers a bit from erratic starting so I may try this!

Are there any disadvantages?

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eogbaker
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:31 pm 
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Simondo wrote:
So it gives extra performance and saves fuel? Sounds too good to be true! My car duffers a bit from erratic starting so I may try this!

Are there any disadvantages?

Only disadvantage I can find is fitting the kit neatly in the engine bay as it is quite cramped in there. Also wiring it up if you are not that confident in electrics. This is a very common mod for the Honda boys as well

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eogbaker
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:47 pm 
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Well I figured i would post this to try help anyone who was at the same point at me.

Basically I didnt want to buy (well struggled to find) a decent heat sink and did not want to buy aluminium hex tubing and then have to cut it drill it and tap it. At the end of the day I bought an old second hand Saab ignition module that came with the heat sink for £10. When i received it I dismantled it to find that there was no need to modify it in any way as the bolt holes for the ignition module were in the same place and even had the 2 extra holes for the locating pips. Here is the link to the saab one that i bought

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120794893819? ... _803wt_952

and here is it after a little clean and my ignition module bolted to it

Image

Image

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here are some links to another, its not exactly the same but looks like the holes are in the right place

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Ignitio ... 500wt_1202

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Roc
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:12 pm 
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I reckon I could get these made up to go with modules, if I had a pattern, and there was the interest of course.

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eogbaker
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:18 pm 
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Well really the only pattern you need is the 2 bolt holes for the module and the locating pins and seeing you should have at least one module in stock you can just use that to make the template. Then you just need 2 holes for bolts to go through the ally to mount onto the bulkhead. As there is no set place on the bulkhead the position of the 2 mounting holes can be anywhere.

If you can do it you might as well offer it with your modules when you sell them. Obviously it will be up to you and how your sales are of the ignition modules.

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Roc
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:32 pm 
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eogbaker wrote:
Obviously it will be up to you and how your sales are of the ignition modules.


Very low, not a massive amount of people doing the mod really.

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eogbaker
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:37 pm 
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Roc wrote:
eogbaker wrote:
Obviously it will be up to you and how your sales are of the ignition modules.


Very low, not a massive amount of people doing the mod really.


If that is the case people might as well just do what I have done and get a second hand one off ebay or like the original post by fast mike get some aluminium hex bar.

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silver-machine
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:44 am 
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I just went to my local scrap yard and looked at all the old cars till I found a heat sink attached to a module. The module was not the right one so I took it off and then paid a couple of quid for the sink on its own. Then went to e bay and bought a tube of heat sink paste. Worked perfectly.


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silver-machine
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:46 am 
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1 problem mike mentioned was the plug leads. should use 8 or 10mm ones to carry the stronger spark. I did not notice a fade in performance but I only use my car about 6k a year.


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