Originally written by Lethagized, but I've added details and corrected a few bits

This is intended for for someone installing an alarm into their BA. I did this on my 1997 model but i only installed the basic stuff. You'll still need a multimeter for installing further options such as engine start and total closure systems.
For further wiring colours go to http://www.imazda.com/mazdaracer/ALARM_ ... ech_G2.htm

Wiring colours may vary depending on model year
When i describe wire colors such as red/black, i mean the wire is mostly red with a thin black stripe.

You'll also need to study your alarm wiring diagram and get familiar *before* you start tearing the car apart. All i'm going to show you is what and where the wires are for the following systems...

Central locking system
indicator/hazard warning system
Door trigger system
Ignition signal

Central locking system.....

All BA models are Negative pulse system
Remove the passenger side kick panel and you'll see a green control module. Find and tap into the thin Green/White and Red/Green wires

Green/white = Lock
Green/Red = Unlock



Indicator/Hazard warning system.....

Remove the drivers side trim below the steering wheel which contains the cubby box. Also while you're there, unscrew the trim behind the steering wheel (3 screws underneath, dont remove it, just unscrew it so you can move it around)Locate the plug/socket in the picture below and tap into the thin Green/Yellow and Black/Red wires.
Green/Yellow = Left hand side indicators.
Black/Red = Right hand side indicators.



Main 12V supply.....

On the same connector block as the hazard warning system, tap into the thick Red wire. Or run your own 12v feed from the battery, through the existing gromet above the clutch pedal
Red = Constant 12V+



Door trigger system/door switches for interior light.....

Remove the drivers side A pillar trim that runs down the side of the windscreen. Locate the thin Red/White wire which is inside the plastic tube wrapped in tape and tap into it. You can also tap into this wire by the fusebox, but i found it easier doing it half way up the pillar. (HughieW - I also found it MUCH easier half way up the pillar)
Red/White = Negative door trigger wire

To tap into wires without breaking them i use these wire strippers. (HughieW - I had no wire strippers, so I used a sharp stanley knife to remove insulation from a part of the wire without cutting the wire)



They stretch the insulation apart enough to wrap the wires from the alarm onto. This is fine for low power items such as central locking and interior lights, but for bigger stuff such as starter motors and electric windows, you want to splice into them properley with the use of proper connectors. I put a small dab of solder onto each joint to make sure it didn't come loose.

These are the 4 basic things you need to know when installing an alarm. The other wires on the alarm should be self explanatory such as boot/bonnet switches and accessory input wires.

Ignition wire is more of a pain to get to. On the passenger side of the steering wheel, there are some wires wrapped in yellow stuff. Follow those towards the steering wheel, until you find a white connector with several thick wires. This should be just above the connector with the yellow wrapped wires. This connector is a pain to unplug, but unscrewing the bit behind the steering wheel makes it a bit easier. You need to tap into the thick blue wire, or the black/red wire (IG1, or IG2) and connect it to the ignition wire on the alarm loom if yours has one.

Install your siren somewhere in the engine bay, away from anything that moves. Mine is stuck to the plastic battery holdy thing. I ran my siren 12v feed from the alarm, through the gromet near the clutch, along the back of the engine bay and onto the siren. To ground the siren, there is a ground connection on the side of the engine near the lifting hook. I loosened that, stuck the stripped wire for the siren ground under the washer and tightened it up again.

From someone thats facing this very task in a few weeks, a personal THANK YOU

Not sure if the wire colours are the same on an MX6 stu but give your local Mazda a ring, they can get hold of the wiring diagrams. Or pop in, they might be nice enough to give you a copy

I'm sure the mx6 boys will know which wires to splice into. I attempted to tackle this task on the girlfriends polo last weekend, unbeknown to me, they use a negative pulse CAN Bus system which uses a single wire for both lock and unlock and depending on the resistance can operate different things

Ahh I've read about those scott! The scorpion SA30 has that feature

No they aint

Just for info though

Yellow = Lock
Orange = Unlock

L Ind = Green/Black
R Ind = Green/White

Rest are the same

Oh well there you go

It took me about 15 hours in all to get it working, but I had problems in that I had to figure out what some wires were, and my siren doesn't work so I've probably spent about 2 hours tinkering around with that. All to find I need a new alarm module

So yeah someone who knows about basic electronics (how to splice and solder etc), how to use a multimeter, and who doesnt spend a good hour or so trying to find the gromet into the drivers footwell probably take it down to about 10 hours in all, I was taking my time

Makes it alot less daunting to try. Will need to get one now! Do you need to buy one with realys or somthing lyk that? Read that somwhere I think?

I'm not 100% sure, I think BA's have relays already, someone confirm that? If you're gonna get an alarm, you might as well get a decent one. Mine is a Scorpion SA30 (cost me about £60).

Thinking about it, you shouldn't need one with relays because the central locking relay in a BA is in the passenger footwell, so just sending -12v through the unlock wire will unlock the doors.

Nope, no relays needed

I'm obliged to recommend ebay seller carsecurity59. He sells the scorpion sa30 at a damn good price. Mine was faulty i admit but was replaced free of charge within 2 days. Great communication through email and phone, really helpful guy and knows his stuff.

If anyone is unsure what alarm to get or where from, I recommend him! Scorpion SA30 is a good bit of kit remote central locking, deafening siren, silent arm/disarm, engine immobiliser (i didnt bother with it), boot release, bonnet trigger, door trigger, boot trigger, shock sensor (vibrations and stuff), voltage sensor, ultrasonic sensors - everything! £47 plus postage i paid

www.rclick.co.uk would be my recommendation. Good kits for very good money

Thanks. I'll have a look 2moro. Take it any one will do then? Don't need a Mazda or 323 specific? Fancy tackling the remote start. Getting handy with the old crimping set and multimeter these days. Would be handy for cold mornings. Although were starting to get abit warmer now. Always next year tho!

Hi
Not sure if anyone is still looking at this but hopefully someone can help!
Spent a frustrating afternoon trying to install a central locking unit as per the instructions above.
Bought a unit from Rclick
Took a permanent positive feed from under the steering column and connected the negative earth from the bodywork. Tested with multimeter and have a good 12v current.
Connected the two leads on the unit to the "Lock" "Unlock" wires as detailed above and as instructed in the units instructions. Checked connections working with multimeter.
Having done that the remote control makes the unit "click" when buttons pressed and the led flashes to say it's locked but the central locking doesn't engage or disengage.
Any idea what I could have missed?

Does the new unit click or does the existing relay in the footwell click? If it's the new unit, the problem lies with your wiring. If it's the footwell relay, the problem lies with the car's wiring (but then the central locking wouldn't work from the key either).

Whichever locking wires you spliced into under the dash, try connecting them directly to the battery VIA A FUSE (just run a FUSED wire from the battery, into the car, then onto where you've spliced it. If the doors do not lock/unlock, you've spliced into the wrong wire

Different age cars will have different wiring colours - if yours is a 94 - 96 reg, you've got the wrong colours - these colours are for 97 reg (well, late 96 and onwards). It would appear the old link does not work anymore

Hi, thanks for the reply

The new unit clicks not the central locking unit. Central locking works ok from the key

The dash wire supplies my positive feed and I have a good 12v circuit

The car is a P reg and has the wires indicated in the top picture of this post from in the green control module. If I have the green module could the wires be different?

Confused.....!

Hmmm I would guess that you've spliced into the wrong wires going into the central locking relay.

P reg is 96-97, so it could be post ford (like mine) or it could easily be pre ford, which would have different wiring colours. Do your wing mirrors have a ridge in the back or are they totally smooth? Do your front doors have big bins with lids, or just pockets? Is your interior black, or green/grey? Do you have plastic bump strips down the sides of the car?

I think you've got a pre-ford car by the sounds of things - have a prod around the relay with a multimeter, and try locking/unlocking the door using the key until you find the right wire

Also, remember the car uses a NEGATIVE pulse locking system

Hi

Smooth mirrors; big bins with lids; blue interior and no bump strips!

So what am I?!!

Does that mean I do or don't correspond with the picture at the top of the post?

Appreciate you help - thanks!

Oh and I got my negative feed from the car body so I think I got that bit right!

You're pre-ford, so you have different wiring to me, hence the problem

Car is a negative earth, so that's correct, but the central locking operates on a negative pulse system, so when the doors lock for example, it sends -12v to the doors, rather than +12v.

I don't think that would be your problem though, I think you've just spliced the wrong wires. Poke around with a multi-meter to find the right ones Where abouts are you based? If you're local, I could lend a hand

Interesting!

Negative pulse is a new thing to me....

Thanks for the offer of help but unfortunately I'm down in Reading. As it happens I got the car near you!

Sorry to be thick but what do I do with the multimeter? What am I looking for? Am I trying to see a circuit when the key is turned? If so would it be a negative current through the appropriate wire or positive?

Not sure where I'd be without Club 323!! Only owned the car a month and am using it all the time!

Oh strange!

Put the black terminal on a bolt or something, then put the red terminal onto where you've spliced one of the wires, then try unlocking/locking the doors. If the number on the screen stays at 0v, you've used the wrong wire. You need it to say -12v So then keep probing different wires in the relay until you get it to say -12v.

At least, I think that's how you'd do it Lethagized might be a better member to ask, as he wrote the guide above originally

Makes sense. I'll play and let you know. Many thanks

All sorted now! The trick was to pay more attention to the forum and less to the instructions.

The central locking wires were the same as in the picture above.

The problem was the power wires in the central locking unit. In amongst the miriad of wires there were two yellow wires that needed connecting to the black negative wire. The instructions had me connect them to the positive wire. As Hughie pointed out its a negative pulse so as soon as they were switched onto the negative not the positive it worked. Initially it kept opening the doors about 10 seconds after closing but that seems to have settled down fortunately though if the car disappears from the drive I will know why.

To make the indicators flash when central locking engages do I just tap into the wires indicated above? I read something about needing diodes?

Nice work matey

Check in your installation instructions with your kit - if it has diodes built in, you don't need them. My Scorpion SA30 had them built in, so I just tapped into the wires, job done (although first time round, I got the headlights instead of the right indicators, which was interesting!).

You'd fit diodes to stop the regular current (when you switch the indicators on) going back down the wires and frying your new remote locking unit. If you've got a maplin or radioshack nearby, it might be worth getting some just in case - if they're built in, extra ones won't have any effect Just make sure you get them the right way around

The diodes are only needed if you only have ONE indicator output wire.

Basically, you need to split that into two wires to connect to both right and left sets of indicator lights. If you just joined that one wire to both right and left without a diode on each connection, you would essentially join both sets together. So when you go to indicate, all the lights would flash no matter if you were signalling right or left The diodes only allow current to flow one way - from the central locking/alarm unit to each set of indicators, but not back from the indicator unit through your connections and into the other set of lights, hope that makes sense.

In short, if you have two indicator/signal wires, you shouldn't need to worry about it

Oh, that makes more sense than my idea thinking about it, its obvious

Great advice thanks!
10 minutes extra work and I have flashy lights as well as remote locking!
Hardest bit was removing the trim panel that contains the cubby box. It has studs and also hooks so you must lift up as well as pull out. The stud is at the top so pull out the top and then lift the panel upwards to unhook it. Start at the end nearest the middle of the car and work outwards. There is a stud in the cubby box that needs removing.
Also I think it is screwed on the right side behind another small panel at the end of the dash. However, you don't need to take the cubby box panel right off; loosening the left hand side is enough to get access to the wires. Not sure why Lethagized recommended loosening the panel under the steering wheel, it didn't give any more access for me. I unplugged the connector holding the necessary wires to make it easy to get at them.
Hope that helps someone else!

Hey guys, just received a new alarm system from http://www.rclick.co.uk with remote start... fancy stuff
Was going to have someone install it but I have to go with his schedule , so I am actually thinking of doing it myself. I've read the guide and it doesn't look like rocket science but I don't want to start something and getting stuck half way.

Has anybody installed the AL669W-RENG kit before? Any other advice appreciated. Oh and it looks like I've got a pre-ford model.

cheers

Never seen that alarm unit before but installation should be the same, as long as your alarm comes with a good diagram of what all the wires do

You might struggle with the remote start - most of our cars have built in immobiliers so getting around that will be tricky. Keep us posted

Hey HughieW, finally got around to installing the alarm. I've managed to get the system hooked up and working, the only thing left is the remote start. I've got a 4 pin relay for that and I have no idea how to connect it. See link to the wiring layout.
It appears that I don't have an immobilizer which should make things a little bit easier. I'm not too sure where the other 2 terminals that should connect to high voltage coil go. I mean which wires should I be looking for here?

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww94 ... /alarm.jpg

thanks