Just thought I would post this in here as it was already types up for Eire. Made a big difference on mine so I hope others can benefit! BUT dont do this if you dont understand it, otherwise your car will be off to a garage for repair!

Any questions just ask: Pics will be up shortly

This may not be the same for either a 1.5 or 1.8? You will have to read into it or get someone to confirm voltages and wire setups on the 1.5 - 1.8's

Adjusting TPS.

Tools needed will be feeler gauges, multi meter, 7mm, 8mm spanner and a pin.



You will need to use the multi meter on the TPS, it’s the second wire down and is done while the connecting plug is still in. The ignition needs to be turned on but the car not running. Attach the negative end of the multi meter to the battery negative and put a pin gently through the wire in question. See pic 2.



Your multi meter needs to be set on .00 Voltage. At this point put the positive end on the pin and read your voltage. This should now read between .1 and 1v. Mine was showing .43 first time.



Write it down and make a note this is your first reading at factory settings.

Now undo the TPS screws, it should be the 7mm. The TPS will need raising (anti clockwise) to increase the voltage. Its quite sensitive and only needs a small adjustment.

Now experiment until you get the desired drive. You will loose tick over stability and it will develop a cruise control behavior and not want to shut down when driving when you go to high. DON’T go to high.

I found even the small .03-.04 increase removed my 2,500 RPM flat spot and it feels way more responsive. Still on target for the normal 300+ tank of fuel also.


I wouldn’t bother adjust the throttle set screw or it will throw things out and you shouldn’t need to do the rest of the things with the feeler gauges unless you mess up. You may need to adjust the tick over screw on top of the throttle body. But I didn’t as I only went up by a small increment.

But, I will explain in brief just in case.

You need to have the ignition turned off.

The throttle set screw needs to be resting on the throttle arm slightly so its JUST off the bottom. You will need to set your multi meter to ohms so you can check for a circuit. Take the wiring harness off the TPS and put the positive and negative on the bottom two pins. One on each.

Inset a .15mm between the throttle arm and check for a circuit. You should have one and the multi meter will read 0.01 +.

Now insert a .50mm in the same place and check again. It should now read 1. This means the circuit has gone and its telling the ECU that tick over is not required.

If this is not the case (which I cant see if its running fine) adjust the TPS until it falls between the parameters. .15mm full circuit. .50 no circuit.

Anyway, good luck and let me know how you got on.

I had a fiddle with this at lunchtime today. When I checked the voltage it was .48V so I moved it to .53V but that put the open circuit settings on the TPS off when I checked it with the feeler guage so I moved it back to about .50 - .51V and it seems a bit better. The one thing I notice that seems to be cured is when slowing down in 2nd gear I used to get a slight chug when the rpm went below 1500-2000 rpm which meant I'd have to clutch early but now its just smooth deceleration right down to idle
Cheers MK

Anyone know how to do this for the 1.5?
Was gonna do the checks with the multimeter but no point until I know exactly what to do cos I will probably fook it up!
I gonna try the ECU reset tonight and see if that helps at all!

ECU reset wont do a lot mate. You still have the same variables coming from your sensors.

It will only make the ECU have to re-learn its settings, which will be the same as before.

What symptoms are you trying to cure? This is about recovering lost power not gaining extra!


Eire, there are no definate settings for this, so as long as its cured something your on a winner!! Glad its helped anyway

Ps is yours the 170PS engine?

I wish No I think its just the standard 147bhp ZXi engine

So is this a cure for jerky V6 then?

Not sure? My car doesnt seem as choppy. But my main problem was the huge lag issue I had at around 2,500 revs and its overall reluctance to go. Dont get me wrong it would accelerate well but I have always felt there is a little bit missing.

But now it seems really responsive.

A jerky car could be allsorts depending on how bad and what it feels like. Intake leaks, ignition issues, bad spray patterns on the injectors etc.

MK3 I have a similar problem to you mine seems to hesitate slightly at around 2500 rpm also it feels really sluggish!
I know its only a 1.5 but it should pull better than it does! I have changed the plugs, dizzy cap,rotor arm and put a piperx panel filter in it!
Next is the leads and an oil change!
Any ides?

Chance oil is always recomended. But i think changing the filters cause the flat spots as they start to run slightly lean with the extra air and heat going in.

It might be worth you looking into this. But only go a small amount at a time when adjusting.

Other 1.5 drivers might be able to confirm your TPS wiring arrangement is the same plus voltages and if so just follow the guide.

Give us a shout if you need any help.



I wouldnt bother with leads unless you have a mis-fire or a chronic loss of acceleration across the board. They either work as they should or go wrong!

Ok nice one cheers for the info mate!
Will have a go at the weekend with the TPS and see how I get on!
Was gonna try the ECU reset at lunchtime today! Cant do any harm eh???
Would a cold air feed help with the panel filter???

Has anyone yet found the correct voltage to set the tps on a 1.5, the sensor is only a 3 pin and so i assume needs to be specific for idle condition to be met, i ask this because mine refuses to idle, im testing it with an led hooked up to the isc valve connector on the loom, according to mazda i should see pulsing from the led, i only see one pulse when i start the engine, at the moment the idle is set with the bypass screw at operating temp so the problem is cold starting it will stall (pain on cold mornings) otherwise performance appears to be normal, any help on this would be greatly appreciated.... thanks.

ya since i fitted the ported throttle body when my car is cold i get a really bad flat spot and i cant seem to get my idle right so thank you very much for this guide and I'll be giving it a go this weekend...

This guide if for the V6 only. The TPS for the 1.5's is setup up differently and you have to measure reisitance across pins rather than voltage as far as I can remember.

This guide if for the V6 only. The TPS for the 1.5's is setup up differently and you have to measure reisitance across pins rather than voltage as far as I can remember.[/quote]

ive hunted everywhere lol for the last couple of years, if anyone knows i would sure appreciate knowing, ive read others asking the same question but never a definative answer, ive looked for schematics and everything, if anyone feels like popping there hood and measuring the resistance between the wiper (centre pin) and the two other pins, or the wiper voltage, either of these would suffice, would be looking specifically for the lower resistance of the two readings,
thank you would be in order !

Try this

Thanks for the response, what that abstract shows is how to check if the sensor isnt damaged, this is of course very usefull information, what i specifically need to know is how to adjust it, I think it maybee on the next part of the page as the last quote says "and then adjust"

Thanks again

Please now this is just teasing me LOL, perhaps if someone has a copy of the workshop manual they can pm me lol

After trying many other things to get rid of my deceleration judder, i thought i may as well give this a go.

checked it and the voltage was .51v so i only increased it by 0.01v
problem solved, definitely worth a try if you have any incurable ailments!

Hi there, can i know the pin should connect between which wires?

I got 4 wires on my v6. from top to bottom.

red green
blue green
blue red
blue black

appreciate your help! ty!

hi there, anyone can update the pictures?

the links are not working anymore. thanks!

Hey guys. I know it's an old guide, just wanted to post a little hacky guide where you don't need multimeter at all! This method also works with 1.5, 1.8 and 2.0 just fine.

I used this to fix my KLZE idle - it was all over the place after i did the engine swap. I also tried it on multiple engines - 1.5, 2.0..

1.First, put the ECU in service mode - short ten + sgnd (the standart procedure).
2.After that, rotate the ignition key all the way, but don't start the engine.
3.Next, loosen the TPS bolts so you can rotate it freely. It might be a good idea to mark the initial position just to be safe.
4.Now you need to rotate the TPS until you hear the engine fan goes on. Thats right - the engine fan will come on!
5. Now rotate the tps backwards just enough to stop the fan. That's it, you're done! Tighten the bolts, turn off the ignition key and remove the cable from the diagnostics box.
*TIP: You will most likely need to rotate the TPS just a bit, not by much. If you rotate it too much, this means you are going the wrong way! Rotate it back to the initial position and try the other way - the fan should come almost immediately on.

This trick works because the engine always switches the cooling fan on when you press the gas pedal in diagnostics mode and the TPS does just that - it tells the engine what position the throttle is in. That way you can set your TPS very precisely.

In my opinion the voltage range given in the manual is not nearly accurate enough. In my case i just had to rotate the TPS very, very slightly, but that changed my idle completely. Before that my car was almost impossible to park without the engine cutting off. After that the idle was rock solid.

Изпревари ме колега!
For all members here: "Sawo" told this trick to me and it works
mine is 1.5 Z5 and i'm happy with the results!
One thing thou, "Sawo" forget to told you,you have to warm the engine to work temperature and then make the "operation"!!

Hi, I need your help!

I tried to adjust the TPS in my BA 1.5 with the “fan method” as described before, with no luck.

The problem is that even I move the TPS clockwise or anti-clockwise, the fan don’t start.

The fan only operates when I open the throttle butterfly by hand, no matter in which position the TPS is.

The car was warm. The resistance of the TPS which I measured using a polymeter between A and C terminals was 4,78 kΩ, so I think it’s not faulty.

Could you please help me with the adjustment process?
Thanks in advance!

There may be some mechanical fault with the TPS, or you're doing something wrong because when you rotate the sensor itself, you emulate the rotation of the throttle butterfly so it is not possible to get the fan running by opening the throttle but not by rotating the sensor. You can remove the sensor completely to get better understanding of how it works. I've tried this method on 1.5 Z5 '98 and it worked just as expected.

Just wanted to add that this works, thanks for the tip sawo.

I did this to my V6 last night and it's a simple, not even 5 min job. The steps I took were:

1 - Marked the TPS and Throttle Body to indicate the original TPS position
2 - Shorted GND - TEN with a small bit of wire
3 - Undid both 7mm bolts. Bottom one was a bit tight, but I unplugged the small pipe that goes in to the side of the main intake pipe and this gave just enough room
4 - Turned ignition to on (without starting car)
5 - Rotated the TPS anti-clockwise (no idea if same for 1.5/1.8 ) a fraction and the fan came on. You can here the relay click first. Then backed it off an even smaller fraction until the fan stopped
6 - Tightened bolts, turned off ignition, removed short from GND - TEN
7 - Started the car to make sure all ok, and it was.
8 - I then checked my idle/mixture screw thing by again shorting GND - TEN and starting the car. Had to adjust it not even an 8th of a turn as it was a bit low (about 725 rpm)
9 - Removed wire from GND - TEN and went for a spin!

Before I had a slight hesitance from about 2.5-3k and again just before 4k, now it pulls really smoothly and feels much more linear in it's acceleration. Not sure that's going to be good for either my fuel consumption or my license

Jon

Smooth acceleration is always good for fuel consumption! You will step on the gas just enough instead of too much to gain the same "feel" from the car

How/where do I do this? Sorry if this is obvious...

I don't know how to do this... Can you explain?

Gave this a go today to sort out my idle as it's been playing up, but I cant get it right... !

For starters.. mines a 4 pin TPS, but that's no biggy because I found this through google:



I've bought a multi-meter to 'do it right' and followed the guide above. From this image, I put a little knick in the wire IDL, touched the multimeter COM to earth on battery and Positive to IDL wire. Loosened the screws on the TPS and measured the voltage. I'm getting 0.02, I turn the TPS very very slightly and it doesnt change, then suddenly it jumps up to 11.67. No matter how tiny the movement its either really high or barely registering. I've tested the TPS using the above method (of checking the resistance between pins) and its 4.68ohms. So the sensor is working I presume!

Gave up trying this method and then went to do the simpler way of bridging TEN and GND, ignition on but not starting, move TPS slightly but The fan does not come on! I hear clicking in the relay but no fan?? So I dont know which click to go by, when I'm turning the TPS.

That being said, I just tightened it up again and the idle is a bit better. She doesnt stall on braking as much, but the revs do dip low and it stalls after revving it a bit. I thought maybe I need to do the Throttle screw guide.. (from the one on the forum) with the engine running I shortened TEN + GND but it sparked quite badly and melted a bit of the plastic and stalled. I stopped there...

Any ideas anyone? Was the IDL the right wire to measure the voltage? plus in this guid it doesnt say what the voltage should be? from other sites I'm guessing it should be between 0.40v and 0.50?

sounds like a dirty fan connection. Mine has suffered this many times, clean the fan connection near radiator, bridge 10 and gnd. press the throttle and check fan works. repeat the clean if the fan doesn't work. There is no exact voltage, its an each to there own scenario. Also check the slow blow fuses in engine bay fuse box if rad fan doesn't work after cleaning. You can also connect a 12v light bulb to fan connection if the fan has a motor problem. the light will come on even if the fan doesn't.