- I chose to install driving lights instead of fogs, as fogs tend to be useless in anything else but actually fog! Driving lights can be used on full beam, and make a noticeably difference.
The lights that I installed were "Ring Mircoline Driving Lights", these cost around £20, and also come in fog version. They fit very well in the bumper, and that was one of the main reasons I chose them. The lights are 55W, so are also very bright.
- The next thing is the switch. I used a rear fog light switch that I got from a scrap yard. This only cost me about £2. The main problem with using this switch is that the connectors don't match (as one is pre ford (the switch), and the other is post ford (the dashboard)). To connect the two versions together, I connected crimps as shown below. The crimps just slot in perfectly to the connector already in your car.
The colours of the wires are as follows:
Car Connector Colours:
Blue: 12V
Blue/White: Feeds fogs with 12V supply
Red: Earth
Red/Black: 12V for bulb
Switch Connector Colours:
Black/Red: Earth
Red: 12V for bulb
Pink/Blue: Feeds fog lights with 12V supply
Black: 12V
- Fitting the switch is easy, just follow the steps on dashboard removal, slot out the blanking plate, and put the new switch in.
The switch should now be illuminated, and once pressed, should light up the dashboard light. This is shown below:
- Fitting the lights:
Follow the steps to front bumper removal. Then comes the hard part. I did have proper brackets, but didn't like
them that much, so decided to make my own. I wasn't really keen on drilling holes in the bumper, so I didn't.
There are two holes in the bumper that you can use for bolting the brackets on. I'm sure you can find them. The brackets I used were wall brackets from B&Q. They are shown below:
These take a little bit of drilling, but not that much. Then just fit some bolts on these to attach them above
and below the holes on the bumper. The flat on above, and bent below. The lights can then be attached to the
bent bracket. This can be seen below (just!):
The overall car is shown below:
- Relay:
After fitting the lights, you might want to fit a relay. This is so that the lights only come on with full beam. You can have the choice of coming on with full beam or not by the switch on the dash board. A table is shown below showing how it works.
The circuit that I made to do this is shown below:
The relay can be brought for about £3 from motorworld. I used a 12V 30amp relay. I connected the power supply to the fogs (from the car), to the two blocks at the top of the diagram. The actual fogs then connect to the bottom blocks. I also installed two fuses, one on each "Fog+", before they connect to the fog lights, to stop both bulbs blowing if one blows.
Connectors can be brought from scrap yards as I did. Again I didn't want to cut any extra wires on the car
that I didn't need to, so I got some headlights connectors to make the piece of wire that detects weather full
beam is on. You can then unplug the main headlight, and plug the two connects in between.
The connectors I used between fogs were Mazda 2-pin male and female connectors.
The connectors you'll need from the scrap yard are listed below:
1x Male 3-pin Headlight connector
1x Female 3-pin Headlight connector
4x Male 2-pin connectors (1 for fog light, 1 for car fog supply, 2 for circuitry between them)
4x Male 2-pin connectors (1 for fog light, 1 for car fog supply, 2 for circuitry between them)
Relay is shown below (with fuses):
Crimps can be used again, to attach to relay.
Whole circuit is shown below:
You can then wire up the circuit to the car, with cable ties. Because I was using the circuit on
the car, I used Silicon fuse tape to go around all the connectors, this makes it waterproof.
It's not cheap, but I think it's worth it. A picture is shown below:
Thanks to 'JAJC82' for relay information, 'Shaggy' for front bumper removal, and the person who did
the dashboard removal on the club 323f site.
